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Introducing myself

Discussion in 'Introductions!' started by Hector Lagos, Jan 22, 2019.


  1. Hector Lagos

    Hector Lagos Young Tutorling

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    Hello everyone,

    My name is Hector Lagos, I'm from Santiago, Chile.

    I've used the airbrush for painting scale plastic model kits (mostly war aircraft from WWII onwards) since the mid-80's (with several large hiatuses).

    I came to this forum looking for information regarding the mysterious factory where all (current) Japanese airbrushes are made (this seems to have been clarified). I'm also interested in compatibility of the spare parts from the different Japanese companies that sell airbrushes and technical innovations like improved needles, needle packings, surface platings, etc.

    That would be the introduction. If you have any question, feel free to ask!

    Regards,

    Hector Lagos
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  2. J000seph

    J000seph Detail Decepticon! Very Likeable!

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    Welcome to the forum. I saw your post in the Fuso Seiki thread. I share your interest in Japanese parts compatibility of various brands. There’s some good info on here. A few members on here make some improved parts you mentioned.

    @DaveG
    @Robbyrockett2
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  3. Hector Lagos

    Hector Lagos Young Tutorling

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    Thanks for your reply Joseph. Are you aware of any thread where parts compatibility is discussed or shall I start a new one?

    Regards
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  4. DaveG

    DaveG Detail Decepticon! Very Likeable!

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    Hi Hector, and welcome to the forum. I do not think there is a comprehensive list of parts compatibility anywhere. At least not one I have seen. With the Japanese brushes, there are quite a few that may be from say, the 70's to the early 2000's that look very much alike. As you allude to, they can all be traced to a common origin in the Fuso Seiki (now another name that slips my mind right now) - such as Olympos, Richpen, Iwata, eventually Holbein (the Toricon series and newer), etc. While nozzles, air caps, needles, etc may actually fit one brand to another, I have found it best to keep groups of parts together - That is, if you decide to use an Iwata nozzle on an Olympos body, it is most often best to also use the Iwata Nozzle Cap, and Needle to match. Same if adding the parts to a Richpen, use the group of parts. That seems to be the one area the individual brands tend to vary - each seems to have their own nozzle spec, as well as corresponding nozzle caps.

    If there is something more model specific you are looking for, feel free to ask. I have a few of the Japanese brushes, and may be able to answer the question, or go and test the parts if I have not already.
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2019
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  5. J000seph

    J000seph Detail Decepticon! Very Likeable!

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    I don’t think there is a specific thread about parts compatibility.
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  6. saikokabuto

    saikokabuto Young Tutorling

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    Welcome to the forum!
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  7. SiRoxx

    SiRoxx Party Boy UK Style Very Likeable!

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    Welcome from the U.K. Hector.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  8. Hector Lagos

    Hector Lagos Young Tutorling

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    Thanks for you reply Dave.

    Just a clarification on "The factory that makes all current Japanese Airbrushes" topic. It is my understanding that:
    • The alluded factory is not "Fuso Seiki" (RichPen), but "Hokushin Seiki" (Rich/B.B. Rich). Source: "FUSO SEIKI FACTORY" thread on this forum.
    • While this may be the factory where all Japanese Airbrushes are made now, in the past at least Olympos had its own factory. Source: My Olympos airbrushes packaging and instructions.
    Regarding the parts compatibility, I realize now that I should have been more specific. What I'm interested is on the different "Micron" flavors (Olympos, Iwata, Mr. Hobby) and their "cousin", the SP series from Olympos compatibility. In particular, I suppose that the K33 needles are targeted to Iwata V2 Microns, so they should be compatible with all the other microns, and even the SP A/B; but I (still) don't have a K33 needle, so if any of you have a K33 on a Mr. Hobby (PS-770) or Olympos (MP200, SP) it would be great to know.

    Thanks again,

    Hector Lagos
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  9. DaveG

    DaveG Detail Decepticon! Very Likeable!

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    I am not so sure that Olympos ever had an actual manufacturing facility - but, am not going to debate it either. It simply isn't worth the effort ;). There is nothing on any of the paperwork included with any of my original 1980's Olympos Micron (MP200B), My 1980's Iwata Micron (which is also an Olympos MP200B), my Iwata HP-SB V1, nor my Iwata CM-SBv2 (or any of my other Iwata Microns) that would indicate what factory they were made in. Only my Richpen has a fuso seiki logo on the paperwork.

    The K33 will actually not work well with the Olympos versions and flavors of the Micron. When Iwata started branding the brushes themselves, under license from Olympos, they spec'd their own nozzle, needle, and nozzle cap configurations. The angle of the needle on an Iwata branded Micron (especially now being calle "V2") is much different than the long taper of the Olympos .18. The Iwata taper does not seal well in an Olympos .18 nozzle. Conversely, the Olympos needle does not work well in an Iwata. The K33 is a similar taper/design to the V2 Iwata.

    I sold my SP-B a long time back, so don't have it here for comparisons sake. I have a friend that tried upgrading his SP-B using a PS770 .18 nozzle and needle, but when he did, he could then not screw the nozzle cap back on all the way. It is unclear to me where the rub is, but I will eventually get my hands on his pieces to examine.

    The Mr.Hobby .18 parts are identical to the Iwata, with the exception the back end of the needle is longer on the Mr.Hobby.
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  10. Hector Lagos

    Hector Lagos Young Tutorling

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    I'm not trying to be contrarian/irritating here. Just curious. I'll post whatever information I have on the relevant thread.

    Thanks for this info. I have an MP200C that I'd like to put a K33 on. Then I'll have to purchase an Iwata head.
    I also have a V1 CM-C Plus. I guess I'll have to check the needle shape to see if I can use the K33 on it.

    I have an SP-B and indeed the needle cap and crown cap are not compatible with the micron head base/nozzle. I'll have to figure out about the (K33) needle.

    The Mr.Hobby .18 parts are identical to the Iwata, with the exception the back end of the needle is longer on the Mr.Hobby.[/QUOTE]

    Do you know the length of the .18 Iwata V2/K33 needle? My only concern is that it may be a little too short for the PS-770.
  11. Mr.Micron

    Mr.Micron Royal pain in the air hose Admin

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    Do you know the length of the .18 Iwata V2/K33 needle? My only concern is that it may be a little too short for the PS-770.[/QUOTE]
    The V2 needle will only stick out the gravity feed about 1/4 inch but on the side feed they stick out more like 1/2 inch. To my understanding the K33 are all based off the V1 but I might be wrong on that part .
    But being I can mirror polish my own needle I can see no sense in blowing money on the K33 being I have only ever bent one needle on my micron and that was due to my neighbor knowing over the table the stand is mounted to . But he is legally blind and he did feel bad and paid for the replacement needle and nozzle.
    But both Marissa and Carlos are member of this forum or just go to FoxyStudio and ask them you question on the K33 needle.
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  12. DaveG

    DaveG Detail Decepticon! Very Likeable!

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    I do not have a .23 K33 needle here, but do have the .18. The .18 K33 is the shorter, V2 Iwata length. I would suspect the .23 to be the same, with my reasoning being that Iwata shortened the needles do to removing the rear handle through hole in favor of the crown cap keeper at the back. If you use the longer V1 needle in a V2 brush, when you screw the handle on, it will push the needle right through the nozzle before the handle tightens.

    The V2 needle sticks out only just far enough to grab with pliers on the PS770 - I have used my fingers, but it is tricky.

    I have only looked quickly, and without a true measurement - but a quick visual inspection of the Iwata V2 .18 needle, and the .23 needle look like they share the same taper to me... and may be interchangeable.
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  13. Hector Lagos

    Hector Lagos Young Tutorling

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    Thanks for the info Mr. Micron!
  14. Hector Lagos

    Hector Lagos Young Tutorling

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    Too bad the through hole is not there anymore. I use it to safely re-introduce the needle. Hopefully, the V1 back handle is compatible with V2 microns.

    That's what I feared. The .18s are meant to be used in the CM-B/SB, which are shorter than the CM-C Plus/PS-770.

    Interesting! I'll see what I can do with the PS-770 needle (0.18) on the V1 CM-C Plus.
  15. Squishy

    Squishy Queen Clown Slayer Mod

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    Welcome from the UK. As you can already see lots of knowledgeable guys happy to talk parts with you. Enjoy.
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  16. jord001

    jord001 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    Welcome to the forum Hector. Hopefully we have your answers and more. Hope you have a good stay with us.

    Lee
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  17. Franc Kaiser

    Franc Kaiser Mac-Valve Maestro! Very Likeable!

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    Welcome to the forum from China!
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  18. J000seph

    J000seph Detail Decepticon! Very Likeable!

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    Too bad someone doesn't make a shorter needle chucking guide so that people can more easily use V2 needles in their older microns..
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  19. Hector Lagos

    Hector Lagos Young Tutorling

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    If I understood @DaveG correctly, this only happens if you want to use a V2 0.18 needle on one of the "0.23 microns" (CM-C/CM-C+/PS770).

    Anyway, even if there where a shorter needle chucking guide available, the back of the needle would not stick into the "Pre-set handle adjustor" (part #12 on the attached diagram), causing instability.

    ICM1102-IM.jpg
  20. DaveG

    DaveG Detail Decepticon! Very Likeable!

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    There is no need for a shorter chucking guide, just use the also readily available V1 .18 needle. It is the proper length to work in the CM-C+. As an alternative, you can also use the Croes GSI PS770 needle, which is the same as the Iwata CM-B, and CM-SB V1 .18 needle...

    Lots of people work with the back handle off, as well as the through hole in part #12 is sized in such a way that it offers nothing in the way of stability to the needle... part 12's purpose is to stop the rearward movement of the needle chucking guide at a preset distance, not as a needle support.

    I have tried adding a teflon, delrin, nylon, and other slippery, slidey materials to my own versions of part 12, and found no increase in performance by attempting to support the back of the needle.
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