Jackie and Mark gave you some great starting points.
I'd go with green painters tape over blue, it's better. Although with the complexity of your edges I'd probably be doing fine line tape then regular masking tape. You run the fine line then slap the masking tape over top then cut it with a razor over the fineline tape and pull off what you don't need.
Just avoid lacquer over your enamel.
Any airbrush paint like wicked is probably going to work best. For two or three reasons.
1. Without any AB experience it's always best to start with, it takes the guessing out of " Is this me, or my equipment"
2. Even avoiding lacquer, some paint brands are either going to not adhere as well as they could or run the risk of being too "hot" or otherwise just not greatly compatible. Wicked is nearly inert yet pretty tenacious.
3. A final clear coat would be required with wicked, but not further enamels. That sounds like a disadvantage but it's not. You'll be more motivated to clear coat if you have to and if you just used more enamel it's likely to get chipped. Plus it's much harder to spray on thin as you approach taped edges and still get it to flow out smooth.
The downside is it's several extra steps, especially if you want gloss white/satin black. In which case you'll be masking off twice, once to get black and clear it, once a hair into the black to gloss clear your white.
If you go with more enamel I'd just decant some from a spray can through a straw to airbrush with but be doubly sure it is in fact enamel.
It doesn't sound likely you'll 2k clear so I'll recommend rust oleum 2x clear. Its pretty awesome as far as spray can clear goes. Just do some practice pieces , it levels out slowly so it can be tempting to go too thick and end up with solvent bubbles.