This is a picture of my finished painting from Paint Pals 6, I found the reference on Pinterest and it was a really caught my eye, had a lot of texture, change of focus and come nice colors. The only real changes I made from the original was isolating the color to the eyeball only, and punching up the saturation of the colors. I’ve always liked this effect when done in photography, so I figured I’d paint one that way. Substrate: 5”x7” Yupo Paper Paint: Createx Illustration Airbrushes: H&S Evolution AL Plus, Infinity, Iwata HP-CH, Olympos HP-100SB Tools: will be listed below Here is a picture of the tools that were used on this project. From right to left, #15 Scalpel, Hard Ink Eraser, Medium Ink Eraser, Soft Pencil Eraser, Kneaded Eraser, Pentel ZE22 Wide Soft Eraser, Tombow 2.3mm Soft Eraser, and two 1/4” Oak Dowels(one with conical shapes and the other cut with a blade for wide. blade like edges) These wooden dowels work awesome for Yupo techniques, but I have not tried them on any other substrate. In the first image here are just the very basic shapes dusted in through a printed image and cut out the basic dark shapes as a stencil. The very edge of the eye is a pretty hard edge, so I tape this stencil above my painting so I can hinge it when ever I want to re-establish the hard lines. Notice that I also just start dusting in the basic shapes and directions on the rest of the painting. These are just references at this time but using light layers will eventually add to the depth of value created in the painting. Here I start darkening some of the really deep shadows, while I am doing this, I am dusting over some of the other darker areas, then scratching/ erasing to start adding texture to some of the areas that are in shadow. The wooden dowels were used here to establish the texture to the bottom left of the tear duct, The dowels are much better when the paint is fresh. With Createx Illustration, if you go past 15 minutes or so, the delayed cross linking kicks in and becomes harder to erase or scratch. In this image, I continue to build the shadows and texture, but I establish the edge of the highlight on the eye. In the highlight on the reference, there is some very subtle gray colors with some texture in it, so that portion is done very early in the painting. I also start erasing some of the basic shapes that I see in the shadowed area of the eye to the right of the highlight. Pushing back the shadows some more, added some wisps of what look like soft hair shapes to the background and use a soft eraser to bring some more contrast. The other basic blobs of shadows on the unfocused areas of the cheek and side of the face are deepened. Added more depth to the Iris of the eye, still erasing and scratching in light layers to create depth. The more layers you create, the more believable the painting will be(to a point, you don’t need to go overboard) Here is mostly looking back and forth between my painting and reference to get the shadows more accurate. While doing this for each layer, I am scratching out the next brightest area in the hair at the top of the painting. Finally……Color!! I see quite a bit of Violet in the areas where I’ve sprayed the reference, so at this point, I am just spraying some in as a base. Notice that none of the Violet is in the highlight area of the eye? Thats because it is not in the reference, so I used a torn piece of printer paper as a shield to cover the highlight. Torn paper creates a much more organic edge than a freehand shield, actually, I used no free hand shields on this painting except for the hard edge of the eye. All of the colors in this painting were straight from the bottle. This isn’t my normal style, as I usually match opaque paints, but for this style of painting, it works perfectly and is much faster.