As I took a few progress pictures , here is a SBS which will hopefully be useful First here is the finished painting. Size is A4 Gesso primed MDF(3mm) Badger Krome AB ETAC efx transparent paints. Stage 1. Once the background was completed , sorry no pictures but I simply used short bursts of colour at varying distances along with a large rubber eraser to get the blurry effect, down at the water level a few horizontal strokes to simulate water surface. I started on the water firstly mapping out with paynes grey . Stage 2 Next I went on with pencil eraser for the front out of focus areas and the electric eraser and fibre pen for the 'middle' area, and again the pencil eraser for the out of focus water in the background. I would also do a few bubbles or splashes of water in the air every now and then as they are all over the painting and it would get boring doing them all at once you can see I have done a few already, for these bubbles I simply scratch out the shape with the scalpel, soften with a 2mm eraser and then apply a bit of shading with paynes grey . (very tedious). Stage 3. With the highlights established I then dusted with Phthalocyanine Blue to represent blue reflections in the water from the kingfisher. Stage 4. Now I touched up the dark areas in the water and adjusted any highlights. I carried on using the steps above for the rest of the water. So just to recap , in this picture below the red line is the out of focus water at the front of the painting where I only used the pencil eraser, the area below the blue line is where I used the electric eraser and the fibre pen, below the yellow line is where I used the pencil eraser again for the out of focus water in the background. Although fiddly this need to be done correctly to establish a sense of 'depth' the painting. Step 5. Now time to move onto the head, (also note I had again already created a few more bubbles and splashes of water in the meantime). Again I am using paynes grey to initially map out the area I will work on, why you my ask ? well after a test it was apparent paynes grey serves as a nice base for the Phthalocyanine Blue I will be using as the main colour for any blue area's. A combination of paynes grey and the Phthalocyanine Blue gives me quite a wide range of blue tones depending on how much I build up the layers. Step 6. One again in with the eraser, this time just the fibre pen. Step 7. Now apply colour (Phthalocyanine Blue) Step 8 Now repeat for the main body , i,e mao out with paynes grey and then eraser, then apply colour. Continued in next post..