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Lee's molds

Discussion in 'Open Bar!' started by Robbyrockett2, Oct 28, 2018.


  1. Robbyrockett2

    Robbyrockett2 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    Figure I'd just post this here as it might be helpful to some others at some point as well.

    @jord001 if you wanna put the pics here it will probably help people see what were talking about.

    Ok for your side panels it's going to be a 2 piece mold, One side will be glass backed silicone.

    Start by using aluminum flashing tape attached to the back side to form a flange around the perimeter.

    Flip it over, wax the front including the flange, don't worry about getting wax on the back of the flange too.
    Johnson's paste wax is a good cheap alternative to mold release wax.

    Rave or aquanet hairspray make a good alternative to pva mold release. Spray them lightly over the wax....this is optional.
    Also at this point using tooling gel coat as a first layer is an option for a more permanent mold.

    Now make a glass mold of the front as normal.
    Also mold the flange.
    4-6 layers of 1.5oz mat make a good mold depending on how permanent you want it.

    Now flip it over and remove the tape.

    Here you have two options... depending on your budget.
    I'm assuming your budget is not super low for the next steps as you were willing to buy a 3d printer to accomplish this. So I'll go with the easy to get good results but expensive option for the next steps.

    You'll want plastiline clay or just google modeling clay that never dries out.

    You will be making a layer of clay over the backside about 13mm thick. You will want to extendnthe clay. From the lugs vertically with some PVC pipe, just a couple inches.
    Put a couple of waxed wire rods 3mm or less extending from the part to the flange edge. These form vents later.
    Wax the pipe, and the clay.

    Now make a new fiberglass mold over your clay and pipe and flange. Careful not to wrap over the flange cuz that sucks.

    When this sets drill 6mm holes in the middle of the flange every 25mm or so for bolts.

    All set split the halves and remove all the clay.

    Save the wire rods. Save your clay for more projects.

    Now you can bolt it all together with the wire rods pulled back a bit.

    Pour in molding silicone in your pipes, sneak it in like you want a beer w no foam.

    Smooth-on makes good stuff.
    This is your largest expense.
    There's some seriously confusing different compounds...I'll link you a good one here soon but it's not real critical which for this application.

    When it sets you can take it apart and you now have a mold you can use as much as you want.

    Tthe silcone takes care of the undercut portions of your pegs as you can still pull them out.

    All right, one tip when you lay your glass for the mold, first brush on a layer of resin, or two, it will give you a smooth surface.


    The pegs are still a little tricky to get right when making a new piece.


    I'll go over that part once you've seen this and I know I explained it ok.
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  2. Robbyrockett2

    Robbyrockett2 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    You can use the same silicone to mold your lock piece and then make them from casting resin or epoxy. Assuming you have one.
    And it looks like that pice itself has no moving parts? Is that correct?
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  3. Robbyrockett2

    Robbyrockett2 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    You can do a similar thing wtith the tape for the lid so it's a split mold up the middle and you have no undercut.

    Anyway, I'll wait and make sure I told this clearly before we go into making the new ones.

    I think you have a pretty good grasp of it to begin with, but I say things wierd sometimes.
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  4. Robbyrockett2

    Robbyrockett2 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    I did forget one thing. If you cut some quarter machine bouncy balls in half. You can mount them on the flange before you make the first half.
    These will become alignment pegs.
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  5. JackEb

    JackEb The Dragon Hunter Staff Member Admin

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    Ok, now this is getting weird !! What are you two cooking up ?
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  6. jord001

    jord001 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    I'm guessing this is for the side panel, For anyone tuning in, this is what I want to reproduce.

    Honda-SL100-SL125-XL100-Side-Covers-Reverse.jpg
    RH01.jpg
    RH02.jpg

    I'm sound with making the front part of the mould, Extend the sides so they are longer all the way round, do this from the inside (back) with foil tape or card etc.. (they can be trimmed to size and shape after)
    I'm struggling to get my head round where the flange has to be and how to make the other bit with the lugs on. I've read your post several times but I cant visualize it. Would it look like the brow of a hat all round or just the sides extended?

    Lee
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  7. Robbyrockett2

    Robbyrockett2 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    Yes like a hat brim.
    It just serves to make a perimeter flange to bolt the two piece mold together.
  8. Robbyrockett2

    Robbyrockett2 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    Add a couple bouncy ball halves and you will mold dome pockets into the front half of the brim for the mold.
  9. jord001

    jord001 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    Havent got a lock piece, thats why I need to 3d print one or I could make one from wood then make a silicone mould. Pour reinforced resin in the mould. Hey presto.. It does have a key slit in it but I could drop a popsicle stick or something similar in.

    The lid I dont have either, thinking of making a wooden blank, filling it and smoothing it, Coat of paint, wax, pva and then making a mould of that.

    Lee
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  10. Robbyrockett2

    Robbyrockett2 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    Leave the part in place.
    Remove the foil and balls.
    Then start the back half.
  11. jord001

    jord001 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    I know this is a crude drawing, that flange would be as high as or just taller than the lugs is that correct?

    HR21600side panel flange.jpg

    Not familiar with dome mould pockets?

    Lee
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  12. Robbyrockett2

    Robbyrockett2 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    In this case use rigid insulation foam.

    When you've finished. Choose the best half. Left or right.

    Cut every inch and scan the face if it.
    This makes you a template you can use to make a final and check it and have it be symmetrical.

    Sand the foam, put foil on with spray adhesive. Then wax.

    Make your mold, but start by spraying a thick amount of polyester primer.
  13. Robbyrockett2

    Robbyrockett2 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    No , it would extend from the level of the edges
  14. Robbyrockett2

    Robbyrockett2 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    Give me a few I'll see if I can find some crap around the house to do a crude example.
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  15. jord001

    jord001 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    Ok that will help me.

    I'm familiar with the insulation foam method so I could tackle the lid without too much hassle. The lock i could make from wood and then pour with resin.

    I'm 50% on the side panel, im only stuck on the lugs at the moment, I'm sure when you get back it will be clearer as to what i need to do.
    Thanks for the help.

    Lee
  16. Robbyrockett2

    Robbyrockett2 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    Ok , this will be funny but I'm not going outside.
    IMG_20181028_195323.jpg
    From the front



    IMG_20181028_195336.jpg
    From the rear.


    IMG_20181028_195419.jpg
    Add bouncy ball halves
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  17. Robbyrockett2

    Robbyrockett2 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    Then mold the front.

    When that's done.
    Remove foil and balls.

    Cover the rear including around the pegs with 13mm thick layer of clay. Not the flange though.

    This is a temporary spacer which will be the space silicone occupies.
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  18. Robbyrockett2

    Robbyrockett2 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    Extend pipes from the clay over the pegs.

    Then mold the rear.

    Including flange and the hollow domes left by bouncy ball halves.
    Fill these hollow domes with resin and milled fiber before you lay up the rest.
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  19. Robbyrockett2

    Robbyrockett2 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    Then you can split the mold halves, pull out the clay
    Leave the part.
    Put the halves back together
    And pour in silicone.

    Now on the back you'll have made a mold that is a 13mm thick silicone that includes the pegs.
    It sits in a fiberglass shell.
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  20. Robbyrockett2

    Robbyrockett2 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    This is the new carbon part btw. Before cut and buff.
    IMG_20181028_202025.jpg
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