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Long over due thanks...

Discussion in 'Open Bar!' started by Neural, Nov 11, 2018.


  1. Neural

    Neural Gravity Guru

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    Been a while since I've posted here, but it's been on my mind.

    I want to thank everyone who, when i started out, suggested that I purchase an Iwata Eclipse CS.

    I know I didn't listen to you, but every single time I try and use my Talon, I am reminded of your advice.

    I wish I'd taken it, but my bad choices do not invalidate the good-will of those here who made the suggestions.

    So, thanks. When I have the money, it's pretty clear what I'll be going to buy next.

    Auto paint filters have helped a lot, but the Talon still remains incredibly problematic. There are times I want to just half cut a long straw and put my paint into a Dixie cup, because I could swear it would perform better.
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  2. JackEb

    JackEb The Dragon Hunter Staff Member Admin

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    lol, we can make all the suggestions we like, but ultimately everyone will make their own choice.

    Once you get the $$ together and get the eclipse in your hand and start slinging some paint you'll know why its top of our suggestion list :)
    SiRoxx, Neural and jord001 like this.
  3. jord001

    jord001 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    I think you got a friday afternoon talon, mine has worked really well every time i've used it. BUT you wont go wrong with an eclipse.

    What problems are you having? with the talon? remind me what paint your using too? I can't remember.

    Lee
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  4. Neural

    Neural Gravity Guru

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    With the one I have it's always clogging or airflow issues. This sounds like a simple issue to resolve, but I need to point out that even today I had the issues with airflow (no splattering thankfully), and the painting I did today was done after spending half an hour cleaning the airbrush.
    I soaked all the parts a good 12 hours in the Createx airbrush restorer (I use the Candy2O paints), then used small wire brushes to thoroughly clean it up.
    Put the O-ring back on, got it together, ran a bunch of water through it, then used a automotive paint filter when pouring the paints into the cup.
    And still had massive airflow issues. It would come and go. Rapidly moving the trigger back and forth helped a little, but it would go anywhere from expected flow, down to almost nothing.
    Has been a consistent problem ever since I got the airbrush, but for a long time I assumed it was just me being inexperienced with things like the 4030 adhesion promoter, etc. Or perhaps bad paints from Createx, etc.
    I had no splatters at all today, fortunately, but when I went to clean up my blue paint from the airbrush, there was what appeared to be dried paint at the bottom of the cup (which was not there earlier when I started). Got the wire brushes out, etc., and it still wouldn't come off.
    As for "Friday afternoon" that wouldn't surprise me either. I've never been able to get the cap to fit on the gravity cup, as the cup is either off round or just too small.
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  5. Mr.Micron

    Mr.Micron Royal pain in the air hose Admin

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    Sometime you just have to try a lot of airbrush before you find the one you love the most, But the CS will always be my work horse.
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  6. SiRoxx

    SiRoxx Party Boy UK Style Very Likeable!

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    Sorry you’ve had these issues, but I’m sure they can be resolved. Without wanting to cover too much old ground. What ratios are you using for the Candy2o?
    How much 4030 : Candy : Reducer?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  7. Vladimir

    Vladimir Detail Decepticon!

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    I've bookmarked the thread and will be putting a link to it when people will ask the questions about this issues. It will be the best answer to those asking.
  8. Neural

    Neural Gravity Guru

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    I add 4030 and 4012 per the suggestions by Createx on the paper I got with one of my orders, but I stay to the lower percentage side. 50% 4030, and around 10% 4012.
    These measurements don't always come out exact, as I'm not normally using more than 10 to 20 drops of paint.
  9. SiRoxx

    SiRoxx Party Boy UK Style Very Likeable!

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    Ok. The reason I ask is that you’re describing very similar issues that I’ve had using that same paint through my Eclipse. The solution I’ve found is to have much less 4030 and more Reducer. Something like 5 drops 4030 : 25 Candy2o : around 30 drops Reducer. Obviously the specific numbers don’t really matter, I’m just giving an idea. Until I dropped from 50% 4030 : 50% Candy I could barely get it to spray smooth for anything more than 4 or 5 seconds. I still find it tip drys a lot, but it is at least usable now.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Mr.Micron

    Mr.Micron Royal pain in the air hose Admin

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    I stopped using the 4030 mainly I noticed that by itself will gum up a nozzle faster then anything. I use either the 4004 transparent base or the 4040 but I also only use the 4020 automotive reducer vs the 4012 due to I would get seeding with the 4012.
    After writing to Createx and telling them I was getting seeding using the 4012 they said most people got it using the 4020 but with the 4020 I have never had any issues. If fact the 4020 is the only reducer I use for all createx products .
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  11. Neural

    Neural Gravity Guru

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    Perhaps the 4030 I had been using was part of the issue. The first bottle of it I had was nearly sludge, and I was not filtering the paint at that time either.

    I spent some time cleaning it tonight with small pipe brushes etc.

    It *appears* to flow well enough with water... except that it's having some sort of backflow problem that I can't figure out. It's like when you hold your finger over the tip to push air back up past the needed. Only it's doing it with just water in the cup. The pipe cleaners I have are pretty small. there is no obvious blockage that I can see or sense with the brushes, but something isn't right with it.
    Air pressure is 30 to 35psi. Tip/Needle is #3.

    Honestly, I do not need to do the detail work that most people here do. I don't need 2mm pencil lines, but more along the lines of good atomization without having to use my HVLP which is like using a shot gun to kill a spider. My work area is generally in the 12" x 12" to 24" x 12" range (largest piece I've done so far is 32" x 10". HVLP detail gun I have can do these things in one or two passes, but ideally I need to have a spray that is 5" at most. Dagger strokes are great, but if the minimum it would do is 1/2" I would make it work for now. I'm still looking at an Eclipse HP-CS, but if there is a lower cost option from Iwata (like the Neo series, which has a nice trigger style handle on some of them), or if there are additional components for the Eclipse that I'm going to need to buy to get a wider spray, I'd love to hear advice on it.

    For now, if Paasche only has a 1 year warranty , mine would technically run out on the 27th of December this year, and at this point since I'm stuck anyway, it may be worth it to send it back, though honestly with the out of round cup and such, I'd like to know for sure that they will just replace the entire thing. It seems like this one has a lot of issues.

    Ok, I'm rambling. lol. so yeah, any ideas on the backflow?
  12. CALz AyrWKz

    CALz AyrWKz Moderator Mod

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    Sorry about your troubles with the Talon. I've seen many artists here that have that same one without such problems. But, if you want a nice workhorse brush the Eclipse won't disappoint you. It will be worth the money you spend on it.

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