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Masking residue

Discussion in 'Techniques, Textures, Tips & Tricks!' started by Dimitris, Aug 3, 2017.


  1. Dimitris

    Dimitris Mac-Valve Maestro! Very Likeable!

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    Hi everybody,
    this is my first portrait i've made, not perfect, but i want to ask a question about the masking film i bought...
    After i prepared and cleaned the surface (aluminum panel), I've masked the surface and transfer all the details I wanted it. I' ve started with the face (wicked colors) and when I tried to use the eraser for some highlights, it started also to gather glue residents from the masking tape. Did I do or missed something that should have done?

    upload_2017-8-4_7-46-47.png
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  2. Malky

    Malky Pencil Pushing Protagonist Very Likeable!

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    You should de-tac the film on your clothes to make it less sticky, I personally avoid using using masking films for this reason and the fact that I always found it difficult to re-position it, I would normally print an extra image to cut up as a stencil just for mapping purposes, I hold the pieces in position using magnets.
  3. Dimitris

    Dimitris Mac-Valve Maestro! Very Likeable!

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    thanks Malky, appreciate the help! I'll keep it in mind next time. But the masking tape seems more like frisket film to me.... when i pulled the face part off, it was, I don't know the word, extended-getting bigger than the normal size. Maybe i did something wrong.... This is the masking tape:
    It's HANSA masking tape....is it? :)

    IMG_20170803_205911.jpg IMG_20170803_205953.jpg
  4. markjthomson

    markjthomson AKA QuickDraw and very happy #nobrushleftbehind Staff Member Admin SuperMod

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    OK so quick lesson in terms... masking tape is a tape, not a film. It's typically made of crepe paper (or better nowadays) and comes in widths up to 75mm. What you have posted there is a masking film and yes, quite possibly flexible.
  5. Malky

    Malky Pencil Pushing Protagonist Very Likeable!

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    The film I had was Frisket but it was exactly the same as in your photo, I had the same problems you have, many here icon the forum have also had problems with it, if de-tacing doesn't help I would give up on it.

    As I said I have given up on it and just printed three copies of my image the size I wanted to paint it, one for transfer, one for reference and one for cutting and mapping the important elements, eyes, nose, ears, hair direction and such, Thursday nothing with adhesive is coming in contact with the painting, I know you are working on aluminium but if you placed a piece ferrous metal or magnetic white board behind your work th can still use magnets to hold your stencil in in place leaving you both hands free, this method is time consuming but far safer than risking disaster with adhesive based solutions.

    The stencil method would have been ideal for your lucky project, your image is high contrast so an easy one to cut.

    As an extra tip, you can apply reference dots to your transfer and mapping copies so that you can replace them exactly where they were if needed.
  6. Malky

    Malky Pencil Pushing Protagonist Very Likeable!

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    He does refer to it as masking film in his initial post:)
  7. Leakyvalve

    Leakyvalve Mac-Valve Maestro! Very Likeable!

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    Malky has you one the right track. IMO.. if you can find a way to dump the typical frisket and use freehand masking or a paper masking map, do it.

    The more frisket I use the more I hate it. I also have very little patience for it.

    Also it's really tough to use masking film and not make your artwork look plastic.

    Now I have not tried the new golden mask stuff that Coast is selling that is supposed to be the bees knees when it comes to masking edges and paint pull up.
  8. Dimitris

    Dimitris Mac-Valve Maestro! Very Likeable!

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    thanks people for the hlp, I also use copies of the project to use for masking but thought to use this masking tape for a change. Dissappointed with the adhesiveness of this.
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  9. Malky

    Malky Pencil Pushing Protagonist Very Likeable!

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    You clearly have talent Dimitris so stick with what you know works and don't risk frustration with the masking film, a few disasters with that stuff could end your love of the hobby.
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  10. wickedartstudio

    wickedartstudio Mac-Valve Maestro! Very Likeable!

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    I agree with the others in that, I prefer to work freehand with shields over masking. Unfortunately, there are times when masking is needed. If you're using Wicked Colors you can use an automotive grade wax and grease remover to clean the surface after removing the mask (film or tape). The wax and grease remover will remove any residual adhesive from the mask.
  11. Dimitris

    Dimitris Mac-Valve Maestro! Very Likeable!

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    thamks for your comment Malky, trying to keep the sspirit up
    Thanks for the info! Will any wax-grease remover do?
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  12. Leakyvalve

    Leakyvalve Mac-Valve Maestro! Very Likeable!

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    Test this before you ever try it on a working piece.
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  13. wickedartstudio

    wickedartstudio Mac-Valve Maestro! Very Likeable!

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    Any wax and grease remover designed for automotive urethane will work. I use it all the time to keep my work clean (Wicked, Auto Air and Createx Illustration products) even when I've not used any masking. The only issue I've ever had was with Candy 2.0. It can reactivate the candies and smear them. It works great with any of the other Createx products without issue. However, as Leakyvalve said above it's always a good idea to test on something first to be sure!
  14. Dimitris

    Dimitris Mac-Valve Maestro! Very Likeable!

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    thanks wickedartstudio. i have a wax-grease remover, thank god i used it on a test panel (painted with wicked) and it removed all the paint, it was an all purpose remover. Guess I'll go and get one from a automotive shop...
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  15. Ronald art

    Ronald art Air-Valve Autobot! Very Likeable!

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    I agree with the others on the masking film , I hate the stuff and never use it I only use a graphite sketch to get my shapes down and free hand the portrait for the pupils I will use a shield to get the round shape I need and some other basic handheld shields for sharper lines if I need those
  16. wickedartstudio

    wickedartstudio Mac-Valve Maestro! Very Likeable!

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    Glad you tried it on a test panel first! A couple of tips you may or may not be aware of: Wax and grease remover should be lightly sprayed onto the panel and immediately wiped up with light pressure. Don't hose it on or allow it to sit for very (good rule of thumb is don't allow time for it to evaporate on its own) and don't scrub the panel with a lot of pressure.

    Not sure if you can get it in Greece, but I've been using the Spray Max aerosol wax and grease remover for the last few years on my Createx products with great success.
  17. Dimitris

    Dimitris Mac-Valve Maestro! Very Likeable!

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    nice wicked, thanks for the brand! I'll look it up in stores over here and if I don't find it, it'll be on my next intrnt purchase.
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