Metallic Acrylic Craft Paint

[Joe Fusco]

I have been re-painting Nerf blasters for the past 3-4 years and just started using an airbrush. I have a large collection of craft acrylics - Folk Art, Apple Barrel, etc. - and have read up on how to use those with an air brush. I had some great success with a Berry Wine color and used it as a benchmark for thinning the paints. Since my blasters often have a steampunk feel to them I work with a lot of metallics.

Yesterday, I thinned down a couple metallic colors - gunmetal and sapphire blue - with a mixture of distilled water and 91% iso alcohol. Everything was going fine for a while then I noticed I had to start opening the valve more and more before the paint would flow. Eventually, it would stop flowing. I tried a few things that would get it flowing again for a couple of passes (maybe) and it would stop again. I could quickly go to full open and it would start blasting out but then either quickly stop or stop and start. I'm pretty sure it's the metallic flakes clogging somewhere but I've tried thinning more, increasing pressure, reducing pressure, and all roads seem to end up in the same place.

Has anyone used metallic acrylic craft paints successfully? What did you use to thin them and in what ratio? Am I better off just buying airbrush metallics?

Equipment: Master G22 airbrush with a TC-20 compressor

 

[Mr.Micron]

You are getting tip dry , On metallics you want at least a .5 needle nozzle set up at about 50 PSI, You can not shoot detail with metallic unless you get them that are designed for an airbrush use.
So if you go to hobby lobby and buy Wicked metallic it will flow better then craft paint which are not designed to be used in an airbrush due to the size of the metallic flakes in it.
Metallic are best shot through a spray gun or better yet a flake buster.

 

[AndreZA]

Like Mr Micron said, you need a gun with a bigger nozzle. The metallic particles are too big for that airbrush and no amount of thinning will reduce it. With more water all you are doing is thinning the carrier, not the pigment.

 

[Joe Fusco]

I've seen the G22 advertised with .2, .3, and .5mm needles and thought I might be able to just buy a .5mm needle for it. But if I need to shoot it at 50 PSI this little TC-20 isn't going to cut it, is it? The best sustained pressure I've been able to get is 30-35 PSI.

Also, on the subject of tip dry. I was having a similar experience of decreasing and no flow using the white paint (U.S. Art Supply) that came with the kit. No trouble at all with black and this was before I tried any metallics. Did I, maybe, not shake it up enough?

 

[Mr.Micron]

I've seen the G22 advertised with .2, .3, and .5mm needles and thought I might be able to just buy a .5mm needle for it. But if I need to shoot it at 50 PSI this little TC-20 isn't going to cut it, is it? The best sustained pressure I've been able to get is 30-35 PSI.

Also, on the subject of tip dry. I was having a similar experience of decreasing and no flow using the white paint (U.S. Art Supply) that came with the kit. No trouble at all with black and this was before I tried any metallics. Did I, maybe, not shake it up enough?

Not White is hell on spraying and if not reduce properly can have a lot of tip dry issues. The 30/35 PSI on that compressor is holding pressure and not actual spraying pressure , the minute you hit air on it drops to more like 15 to 20 PSI.
Plus it is more then just putting a .5 needle in when kits come with more then one nozzle and needle size they also come with a different aircap mainly for the .5 set up

 

[Joe Fusco]

Just as a side note, I set my pressure with the brush blowing. I can set it up to about 40 but that gives me a high velocity blast that quickly reduces, which is where I get the 30-35 PSI. If I set it for 35 with the brush blowing it will stay around that pressure.

 

[Mr.Micron]

Just as a side note, I set my pressure with the brush blowing. I can set it up to about 40 but that gives me a high velocity blast that quickly reduces, which is where I get the 30-35 PSI. If I set it for 35 with the brush blowing it will stay around that pressure.

That is what the compressor shows or do you have an actual pressor gauge on the airbrush. While that is what the compressor it pushing it is not what makes it to the end of the hose . Length of hose has to be factored in . You are judging this just off how it blows? Plus it is a tankless compressor so the pressure is not steady and it is almost running all the time you have the air on. That is why I will always suggest getting a good tank compressor vs a studio The studio were design for illustrator who mainly used it to add to their rendering of a project. Trying to use one for a project over heats them . How much water are you seeing collected in the water trap built on the compressor?
http://www.tcpglobal.com/ABD-TC-20-...t6BbR6yxFueh421xUqUlA6ZS159eR-CwaAheEEALw_wcB this is the compressor you have right?
Means when you are spraying it is always running unless you stop spraying , It cut off at 57 psi and cuts on at 43 psi.

 

[Joe Fusco]

Yes, that's the compressor I have. My degree is in radio and television production... I don't know why I didn't think of "signal" attenuation. I see minor condensation in the trap. That's about it. So far I only go about an hour of off-and-on use. It looks like I'll have to continue brushing the metallics until I can justify some sort of upgrade... which may be never since the airbrush isn't making me any money.

 

[Mr.Micron]

The airbrush will make a great tool for what you do and actually if you own a car owning a compressor with a tank on it for inflating tires or even blowing off the floor mats is still a good investment being you can also run a mini spray gun with a tanked compressor which would allow you to lay down those metallics nice and smooth on those Nerf guns.