Need advice 2nd airbrush only to be used for clearcoat models

Alex Kahaner

Young Tutorling
Hi all
I've been painting models with infinity airbrush and I love it. I'm looking to add a new AB which will only be used for clearcoating

Do u guys have any advice on which AB to get.

Thxs in advance
 
Depending on where you’re located (we don’t know because you haven’t done an intro or put your location in your profile) and what your budget is I’d suggest this from Coast airbrush. It has a fan and cone caps.
44C84715-60DC-49C5-886C-4016DAD3A38F.jpeg

And I case we didn’t do it before


ACDC28EC-F209-4417-B3F9-F1D0E08FA27F.jpeg
 
Ok smarty pants! Lol I've done my intro
Now shower me with pro advice lol

I'd prefer a gravity feed dual action AB
I want something that is easy to clean no tools needed
I don't want to spray the 2k clear coat in my harder AB as it's hard to see and clean it
I have no budget in mind but I'd like to keep it reasonably priced.
Please let me know what u suggest!
Thxs
 
I did give a suggestion above :p

What makes you think you need 2k clear? These are models /miniatures so they’re not really going to need hard core automotive grade clear and you really should be spraying 2k indoors OR without the proper ventilation (a hobby spray booth isn’t sufficient) or respirator
 
I did give a suggestion above :p

What makes you think you need 2k clear? These are models /miniatures so they’re not really going to need hard core automotive grade clear and you really should be spraying 2k indoors OR without the proper ventilation (a hobby spray booth isn’t sufficient) or respirator
I use laquer based paints for the outside of the car body truck etc. And it needs requires 2k clear to bring out the correct color, shine and I also need it to do other paints decals on the body. It's real car laquer paint for model cars it's called splash paint simaler to gravity./zero paints which also require 2k clear
I do use respirator, booth and vanitilated garage
 
Glad your using all the right PPE, so many don’t and they’ll suffer for it later.

I’m sure the are alternatives though, I’m not experienced enough with what you’re doing so i’ll Leave any advice to come from others that do similar work.
Any clear will make the colours pop and add shine.
@Robbyrockett2 can probably advise on some alternatives
 
You didn't mention what scale model, but I will assume you are working under about 12" max length, or so... you will want something that will lay down a nice, wet coat, yet still allow for some decent control over the spray. I'm gonna suggest something in the range of .35- .5, and there are a ton of them that fit that range. JackEb mentioned the Iwata TH above, and I will back that one up, but also suggest looking at the same brush without the MAC valve in the form of the Procon GSI PS290. Awesome set up. There is the Iwata Eclipse BCS siphon feed, or a .5 conversion to the Iwata Eclipse CS. Even the stock .35 CS is very effective at laying down a wonderful coat, while also being an extremely versatile brush. Badger Patriot with medium tip and needle, Procon PS266 is an awesome value... Shoot, even the .4 installed in your Infinity will move a decent amount of clear when asked to.
 
Last edited:
What Dave said.


Glad your using all the right PPE, so many don’t and they’ll suffer for it later.

I’m sure the are alternatives though, I’m not experienced enough with what you’re doing so i’ll Leave any advice to come from others that do similar work.
Any clear will make the colours pop and add shine.
@Robbyrockett2 can probably advise on some alternatives

IDK if any alternatives are worthwhile in this case.

If I had to try something to avoid solvents it would probably be createx clear or floor care but splash is already solvents so....idk

Splash recommends the 2k clear;
"Splash Paints LLC offers a variety of factory color matched paints ready for airbrush! When dried, they dry completely flat due to its leveling characteristics. Our pearl/metallic flake sizes are carefully considered to match the scale models. All of our color paints are solvent based lacquer. Our primers and clear coats are only available in 2K Urethane for best durability and results."


If youre using a 2k other than splash/airbrush intended clear be ready to over reduce by a lot. Like in the neighborhood of eg; 3:1:1 clear could become 3:1:4 If you dont want to bury your panel lines.

Not sure anything is going to be able to be cleaned sans tools... some disposable type like these ;
https://www.harborfreight.com/quick-change-airbrush-kit-93506.html

Which is all i'd add to Daves list. They spray well, and for $2 a session you just throw away the bottle, nozzle and all, no cleaning. I use them for small touch ups on real cars sometimes, its cheaper than cleaning a detail gun. Though the "paint fenders ,bumpers and doorjambs" on the page there I have to laugh at lol.
 
Hi Rob and thxs
I've been using this for the 2k
Speedokote Clear Coat 2K Acrylic Urethane, SMR-1150/1102-Q 4:1 Gallon Clearcoat Medium Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SX5537Y/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_ZNBbDbYHTWHMS
I haven't had to reduce it but I've only sprayed it once and I'm fairly new to this but I'm jot 100 percent happy with it. Do u think I need to reduce it the panel lines seem ok to me i did have some orange peel which I'm buffing.

Do u think I should use the 2k clear from splash? U think that I would get better results?

What Dave said.




IDK if any alternatives are worthwhile in this case.

If I had to try something to avoid solvents it would probably be createx clear or floor care but splash is already solvents so....idk

Splash recommends the 2k clear;
"Splash Paints LLC offers a variety of factory color matched paints ready for airbrush! When dried, they dry completely flat due to its leveling characteristics. Our pearl/metallic flake sizes are carefully considered to match the scale models. All of our color paints are solvent based lacquer. Our primers and clear coats are only available in 2K Urethane for best durability and results."


If youre using a 2k other than splash/airbrush intended clear be ready to over reduce by a lot. Like in the neighborhood of eg; 3:1:1 clear could become 3:1:4 If you dont want to bury your panel lines.

Not sure anything is going to be able to be cleaned sans tools... some disposable type like these ;
https://www.harborfreight.com/quick-change-airbrush-kit-93506.html

Which is all i'd add to Daves list. They spray well, and for $2 a session you just throw away the bottle, nozzle and all, no cleaning. I use them for small touch ups on real cars sometimes, its cheaper than cleaning a detail gun. Though the "paint fenders ,bumpers and doorjambs" on the page there I have to laugh at lol.
 
Hi Rob and thxs
I've been using this for the 2k
Speedokote Clear Coat 2K Acrylic Urethane, SMR-1150/1102-Q 4:1 Gallon Clearcoat Medium Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SX5537Y/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_ZNBbDbYHTWHMS
I haven't had to reduce it but I've only sprayed it once and I'm fairly new to this but I'm jot 100 percent happy with it. Do u think I need to reduce it the panel lines seem ok to me i did have some orange peel which I'm buffing.

Do u think I should use the 2k clear from splash? U think that I would get better results?

Speedokote is very thin as is, even so...probably. I would probably get some of the splash, mainly for the experience.
Once youve sprayed with something made to be put out of an airbrush its going to be a lot easier to tell what you need to do with the speedokote.

I would guess your peel is a result of using it too thick. Youre working with an airbrush on a small area and trying to have a pretty thin film build and spray control so my guess is youve got youre pressure up compared to the fluid being put out....dry spray.

Even a thin 4:1 like speedokote is gonna probably end up at something like 4:1:3 ish or higher reduction id say. I end up with 4:1:2 for 4:1 clear and a .6 for thin build.
 
Speedokote is very thin as is, even so...probably. I would probably get some of the splash, mainly for the experience.
Once youve sprayed with something made to be put out of an airbrush its going to be a lot easier to tell what you need to do with the speedokote.

I would guess your peel is a result of using it too thick. Youre working with an airbrush on a small area and trying to have a pretty thin film build and spray control so my guess is youve got youre pressure up compared to the fluid being put out....dry spray.

Even a thin 4:1 like speedokote is gonna probably end up at something like 4:1:3 ish or higher reduction id say. I end up with 4:1:2 for 4:1 clear and a .6 for thin build.

4:1:2 does that = clear :accelerator :reducer?
Are u suggesting I reduce it? If yes what with also what's the. 6 for thin build mean?
Sorry I'm a noob
 
4:1:2 does that = clear :accelerator :reducer?
Are u suggesting I reduce it? If yes what with also what's the. 6 for thin build mean?
Sorry I'm a noob
Yes.
On a .6 nozzle with a 4:1 clear I end up having to go 2 parts reducer or so. If im not gobbing it on there thick.
So on a .35 with 4:1 clear youre likely to need to be at 4:1 then 3,4 or 5 parts reducer really. Basically mix 4:1 then mix that 1:1 with reducer.

Youll have to experiment to see what works best for you and your nozzle size though.
(speedo has no issues with nason reducer btw, which is usually easy to find local and cheap)
 
Just to check , i just now put some 4:1 clear with the same solids content (roughly same thickness) through a .3 nozzle and at 27psi I needed about 4:1:5 but its a chinese brush, doesnt flow a lot. Anyhow youll be up in that neighborhood id say. Surprised you dont have a ton of peel if you didnt reduce it, I guess it does tend to level out quite a bit though.

Also, yes typically youd go piant:reducer:activator but since were talking about paints that dont use reducer i just put the ratio that way to try to be less confusing.... idk if that worked though lol
 
Last edited:
Just to check , i just now put some 4:1 clear with the same solids content (roughly same thickness) through a .3 nozzle and at 27psi I needed about 4:1:5 but its a chinese brush, doesnt flow a lot. Anyhow youll be up in that neighborhood id say. Surprised you dont have a ton of peel if you didnt reduce it, I guess it does tend to level out quite a bit though.

Also, yes typically youd go piant:reducer:activator but since were talking about paints that dont use reducer i just put the ratio that way to try to be less confusing.... idk if that worked though lol
Rob can u tell you have reduced it enough can u walk me through it please

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
Id take a soda can or some non-porous surface, hold it back 4-5 inches, go wide open. It should spray a wet coat in a half second, you should be able to hit that spot for about one full second without runs but if you you hold it longer than 1 full second it should sag or run before it flashes.
 
Hi all
I've been painting models with infinity airbrush and I love it. I'm looking to add a new AB which will only be used for clearcoating

Do u guys have any advice on which AB to get.

Thxs in advance

Yeah, I would not use a Paasche AB for that (at least I think that's what you are talking about here!). I would recommend just a simple siphon fed airbrush like a Badger 150 for that role. For clearcoat applications over a large area, I'd look into something like a small auto detailing spray gun.

Be careful of the 'I need every product made to do a job' thinking. You'll find you can get by on one or two airbrushes just fine.
 
Back
Top