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New airbrush

Discussion in 'Airbrushes' started by Leigh, May 27, 2020.


  1. Leigh

    Leigh Young Tutorling

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    I've just decided to upgrade my airbrush I've just got an iwata eclipse hp-cs can anyone tell me if it's a good brush
    HellBird, Jonathon and jord001 like this.
  2. huskystafford

    huskystafford Needle chucking Ninja Staff Member Admin Very Likeable!

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    Hey Leigh. I moved your thread to the right forum. Forum rules wasn't the right one :D

    Take some time and browse on forum to get to know forum a little better. There is much knowledge to be found all around, so your time will be wisely spend. :)
    jord001 likes this.
  3. jagardn

    jagardn Airbrush Acquisition Disorder Patient Forum Supporter

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    The Eclipse is a great brush. I have the CS and SBS, you really can't go wrong with getting one.
    I personally prefer the SBS due to the easy color changes with multiple cups.

    Sent from my HD1905 using Tapatalk
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  4. JackEb

    JackEb The Dragon Hunter Staff Member Admin

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    If you've already bought it then its a bit late to be asking if its a good brush lol
    But youve done the right thing, its a great workhorse
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  5. markjthomson

    markjthomson AKA QuickDraw and very happy #nobrushleftbehind Staff Member Admin

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    Yes... a good brush, sturdy work horse... but maybe ask that BEFORE you purchase... :p
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  6. Jonathon

    Jonathon Mac-Valve Maestro! Very Likeable!

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    This is what I use and it's great!
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  7. Electric Cat Dude

    Electric Cat Dude Gravity Guru

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    It all depends upon what you want to use the airbrush for. The HP-CS is a well made and reliable airbrush, but it’s primary use is in crafts and textile design. They aren’t great fine detail or illustrators airbrushes.
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  8. Nessus

    Nessus Needle-chuck Ninja

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    HP-CS does do fine detail well, they just aren't specialized for it. They're a jack-of-all-trades workhorse, which means specialized tools will beat them at specialized jobs, but as Jack-of-all-trades tools go, they're actually quite broadly capable. The HP-CS's weaknesses in fine detail have more to do with ergonomics than the physical limits of its spraying capability. It's chunky/heavy in the hand compared to specialized detail brushes, and the needle taper means you get less trigger travel range in which to control fine lines.

    In fact I'd peg broad coverage as a more absolute limitation of the HP-Cs than fine detail. If you're painting something large, the HP-CS doesn't have a large enough spray cone or paint reservoir to do it very efficiently at all. Detail, by contrast, it actually does surprisingly well/easily, just not quite as comfortably as a detail specialist brush.

    That said, it's a top candidate for a "desert island" brush. If I were to find myself in a situation where I had to sell everything and could only let myself keep one brush, I'd keep my HP-CS. which means it's also the one I'd recommend to someone who only wanted to buy/own one brush. It can do the specialist brushes' jobs, whereas the specialist brushes cannot work nearly as effectively outside their sweet spot.
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  9. Nessus

    Nessus Needle-chuck Ninja

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    In regards to the OP more directly: I gave a quick look at your post history to see what you're using it for. For what you're looking to do (motorcycle decoration), the HP-CS will work well for the actual art part of the painting. And it's a relatively tanky brush, so it's well suited to garages and workshops and other non-studio places where hard floors and longer hoses are the norm.

    Just as good, if not more so: the HP-CS is a near ideal beginner/learner brush in addition to being a good long-term workhorse. Very forgiving to use and easy to maintain, but without shortcutting you around transferable/necessary skills. So it's also a great brush to be using while you practice your way up to what you want to be doing.

    You might want something else to do the broad coverage (primer, base color, clear coats, etc.). Maybe a mini-HVLP for priming and base color. Clear coating for automotive might be something you want to contract out, as I'm given to understand it's much less noob-friendly and more sensitive to cross-contamination.
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  10. Leigh

    Leigh Young Tutorling

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    Yes your bang on that exactly what I hope to do my wicked paints came today so I'm gonna have to pull my finger out and give them a try I've got 14 colours I don't know what to start with
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  11. barto

    barto Gravity Guru

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    The science begins here ;)
  12. jord001

    jord001 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    Don't start with black or white. I'd go for a nice dark blue or green, sepia or burnt umber depending on what colours you got in the 14. The reason no black or white is because in most paint systems they usually give you the most tip dry.

    Lee

    Lee

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