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paint issue

Discussion in 'Airbrush Paints' started by ian groves, Oct 27, 2014.


  1. ian groves

    ian groves Spider Splatterer

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    hi fols
    having a head recking nightmere trying to sus paint thining ,was trying to do a black and grey this moring and no matter how much i was thinning it does not seem to lighten ,i have done a test here for you and hope you understand my lay out .ill explaint from the top is
    1 createx illustation ,6 reducer,6 trans base
    1 ceatex illustation ,6 reducder ,12 trans base
    1 createx illustation ,12 reducder,12 trans base
    there is no difference in them at all really.
    someone explaint before my head blows of what im doing wrong please.
    what I find is if I keep adding reducer it goes goes to water and spiders everywhere

    Attached Files:

  2. matty171

    matty171 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    Ive never used them paints so im not sure but are you putting in your paint first? You should put your reducer/trans base first then add the paint cover front of the brush and slightly backflush to mix. This may have absolutely feck all to do with it but just a tip
  3. Mr.Micron

    Mr.Micron Royal pain in the air hose Admin

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    Hmm 3 to 1 mix ratio is standard . So you are way light on the reducer.
    Trans base is paint without pigment. and you are running pretty much a 1 to 1 reduction .
    I usually use 1 drop color , 12 drops trans base and 40 drops reducer as a starting point.
    But that is just the way I do it and I could be doing it wrong but it always gives me the results I was looking for.
    I am sure others will chime in with different answers.
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  4. Mr.Micron

    Mr.Micron Royal pain in the air hose Admin

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    Being you are not mixing candy colors urethane it does not make a difference that I have seen on how you mix the trans base to the paint or reducer for waterbase paints.
  5. Madbrush

    Madbrush Guest


    As well as this, be sure to drop your pressure, the spidering you mention is usually a result of pressure too high after thinning, try turning your pressure right down until you have almost none and then gradually turn it up until you reach spidering point and slightly back till it stops spidering, the thinner the paint the lower your pressure should, your pressure will have less effort pulling really thin paint than it does with thicker paint.

    Also being able to control your brush is a must, I am assuming you are pulling your trigger all the way back but you don't need to, when you use over thinned paint try pulling only until paint starts to come, if your not back far enough you'll get broken or beaded lines if your too far back you'll get what you've got now.

    Play around with pressures and reductions to see what happens and what works for you, and stop panicking, it's part of the learning process, which you will beat with a little patience. lol
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  6. matty171

    matty171 Air-Valve Autobot!

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    Ahh ok i just thought if he was adding the paint first maybe some was seeping in towards the nozzle so his first spray would be darker if he wasnt mixing it before spraying, as i said was just an idea.
  7. AndreZA

    AndreZA Elite Member! Elite Member! Very Likeable!

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    One paint to fifteen reducer should be okay to start off with. If you find that it is spidering at your desired airpressure, replace the drop of reducer with base. You should go very light with the air and not just blast away.
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  8. ian groves

    ian groves Spider Splatterer

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    Thanks for the reply folks .what i am aiming for it a very light transparent paint so I can layer and layer to my desired shade.
    Mr micron I'll try mixing What u start with
    1 paint .12 trans base and 40 reducer .
    I am right in I should be starting of very light and build the layers up from there ?
  9. ian groves

    ian groves Spider Splatterer

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    Just tried the 1 paint 12 base and 40 reducer and found it a good starting point as u say .I ended up adding another 10 more reducer and was happy with it the and took really easy with trigger
  10. Madbrush

    Madbrush Guest

    Absolutely, it's a simple case of being able to hold yourself back and build up gradually at your own pace and be able to correct your values as you go, see?, you already know more than you thought, lol

    P.S. There is no harm at all in starting off with a grey instead of black if it helps, you can always darken later if it's needed, if you look at a black and white picture, I can guarantee you, less than 5% of it will actually be black.
  11. Mr.Micron

    Mr.Micron Royal pain in the air hose Admin

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    Glad to see that put you on the right track ,
    I was taught that black and grey was stated with super over reduce black but there are many different ways to get the same results.
  12. Madbrush

    Madbrush Guest

    The amount of transparency you get with over reduced black will indeed naturally leave it looking grey, but if your as heavy handed as what I am then you full opacity in one pass even with 80 drops of reducer, lol, I have to do everything I can to hold my iron fists back, lol, I can paint a whole car black with a 0.2 tip quicker than Mr Hubbs can with a 3mm tip, ha ha ha
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  13. AndreZA

    AndreZA Elite Member! Elite Member! Very Likeable!

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    Over reduced black and grey turns brown. That is why I use Payne's grey for my black and white paintings.
  14. Mr.Micron

    Mr.Micron Royal pain in the air hose Admin

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    Payne's grey and I are not speaking right now due to it always wants to turn blue.
    or is it suppose to do that?
  15. AndreZA

    AndreZA Elite Member! Elite Member! Very Likeable!

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    You have to keep it mixed but yes, it is blue. The Com-art one separates very quickly in the cup and you have to constantly give it a back flush.
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