Red to White - what to add to white so I don't have color shift?

So you are trying to just make parts of it white, not the whole area ? A white paint pen may be of use if it’s only ‘lines’ of white you are after
 
So you are trying to just make parts of it white, not the whole area ? A white paint pen may be of use if it’s only ‘lines’ of white you are after
I would like to bring back those parts to white, so I can start over with different color.
 
white is a opaque colour layer it to max saturation over a other colour and you will end up with pure white BUT it would take many layers and mess up your work so in your case I would bin it and start all over again and mask off all parts that need to stay white
 
white is a opaque colour layer it to max saturation over a other colour and you will end up with pure white BUT it would take many layers and mess up your work so in your case I would bin it and start all over again and mask off all parts that need to stay white
I was thinking this is possibility. Third attempt on the way I guess. :cry:
 
If you’re talking about starting over for a third time then don’t waste anymore time trying to fix this one especially if you have a deadline.
When I attempt a piece with a deadline I will have multiple spare pieces of paper (just printer paper) so I can practice the effect I’m trying to do. It saves a lot of frustration :)
 
If you wand to make any colour lighter, you look at the colour wheel (yellow at the top) and use the next colour up + white. Here I did it with res. Plain red in the middle, red+white on the left and red+yellow + white on the right.
af70f229dc58ccaa3d6c327a8eef2eb8.jpg
 
If you wand to make any colour lighter, you look at the colour wheel (yellow at the top) and use the next colour up + white. Here I did it with res. Plain red in the middle, red+white on the left and red+yellow + white on the right.
af70f229dc58ccaa3d6c327a8eef2eb8.jpg
Thanks AndreZa for the tip. Gonna bring my color wheel from the storage and spend some time on it.
 
In general, a base correcting color to deal with blue shift is 4 or 5 parts white to one part orange (depending on paint). If you have to also neutralize another color - in this case brown you would take the complimentary on the color wheel - in this case blue. Brown is just a dark orange, that is to say, an orange mixed with a touch of blue. But because of this blue plus orange is just desaturates the orange and darkens it (moves to brown and then grey), so pure white will probably do fine, just ad very slowly, and if you get too much white and it starts to blue shift, use a drop of trans orange to tint. So maybe then 1 part orange to 10 parts white.

If the orange is very reddish or you are painting over a more scarlet tone, blue shift will push toward violent with a white paint, but you can tame that with a touch of yellow. Basically, all you need to do is find the 'opposite' of the color you are trying to neutralize on the color wheel, and add a tiny bit of that color, plus orange if you need it.

I have made a few color wheels with my various brands of paint I have pinned up on the wall so I can quickly look to see what 180 degrees around the wheel looks like and what colors I need to make that.

I hope this is helpful.
 
In general, a base correcting color to deal with blue shift is 4 or 5 parts white to one part orange (depending on paint). If you have to also neutralize another color - in this case brown you would take the complimentary on the color wheel - in this case blue. Brown is just a dark orange, that is to say, an orange mixed with a touch of blue. But because of this blue plus orange is just desaturates the orange and darkens it (moves to brown and then grey), so pure white will probably do fine, just ad very slowly, and if you get too much white and it starts to blue shift, use a drop of trans orange to tint. So maybe then 1 part orange to 10 parts white.

If the orange is very reddish or you are painting over a more scarlet tone, blue shift will push toward violent with a white paint, but you can tame that with a touch of yellow. Basically, all you need to do is find the 'opposite' of the color you are trying to neutralize on the color wheel, and add a tiny bit of that color, plus orange if you need it.

I have made a few color wheels with my various brands of paint I have pinned up on the wall so I can quickly look to see what 180 degrees around the wheel looks like and what colors I need to make that.

I hope this is helpful.
Thanks Kim for the tips. All the info you guys share is helpful. Now I need to put that in to practise. I am sure this thread will be use full for some new forum member as well.
 
You can just use a rattle can clear over what you have to keep it from bleeding thru, Then you can paint your white over that without any problems

I'm not sure that will work. Blue shift with white is due to diffraction through the medium binding the pigment. If you spray on top of something else, you are still going to get the same blue shift. Paint won't bleed through, like it might when you don't secure a layer before spraying candy, but the diffraction, hence blue shift problems with white paint will still be there.

Maybe I am missing something important about understanding what you mean.

Can you fill me in?
 
I'm not sure that will work. Blue shift with white is due to diffraction through the medium binding the pigment. If you spray on top of something else, you are still going to get the same blue shift. Paint won't bleed through, like it might when you don't secure a layer before spraying candy, but the diffraction, hence blue shift problems with white paint will still be there.

Maybe I am missing something important about understanding what you mean.

Can you fill me in?
You get the blue shift because the two colors mix and the blue comes out slightly into your white causes the color shift due to the binder linking the two colors
 
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