Second Brush to pair with Iwata Eclipse

Reciprocity75

Young Tutorling
Hi all,

New forum member and asking my first question, so I thought I should place this in the beginners section. I have been using my Iwata Eclipse with mostly good success for the past year or so. I paint RC car bodies, both lexan and hard bodies. For the lexan bodies, I have been using createx wicked paints, which work fairly well but do tend to flake off a bit easier than the dedicated tamiya PS paints, but I still like the control and color mixing possibilities. For the hard bodies, I have been using both the createx and tamiya acrylics (not mixing them) with good success.

Recently I have noticed that my 0.35mm setup (I have both the 0.35mm and 0.50mm setups for it) I have been getting some poor results or improper paint flow. My tamiya acrylics started to create a lot of whispy type overspray (almost like small fibers of paint) and then last night the paint would not spray and the air just bubbled into the paint cup. Pretty sure the nozzle is the culprit. Not sure if it is just not seating properly or is cracked. The nozzle is tight so I left that alone. I looked through a magnifying glass and I did see a small scratch across the seating area, but I am not sure if that is cause of the failure. When I switched to my 0.50mm setup, everything worked as it should. I will be ordering a new nozzle to start trying to fix the issue with the 0.35mm setup.

Now to my actual question. I am contemplating adding a second airbrush to my setup so that I can leave one with a larger needle setup for large coverage (some of the bodies are 15 inches in length and require a large volume of paint to cover) and have a second brush dedicated for the more fine details, small areas, interior painting, etc. I was thinking of adding another Eclipse with the 0.35mm setup to have both and be done with it. But then I started investigating other options from Iwata, H&S, etc and have confounded my plan and am looking for some advise from the group.

As I stated, I was looking at a second Eclipse but then I started wondering if a smaller needle would be a better compliment to the 0.50mm eclipse? The paints that I use should still work with the smaller needle size, but I am not sure if it is necessary. Sometimes I did wish for a bit more control from the eclipse, but that is mostly likely my inexperience rather than the needle size.

I was looking at a second Eclipse, a HP-C plus, a hi-line, and a H&S evolution or Infinity. Not sure about the H&S as I have never held one much less used one. I am pretty comfortable with the Iwata. Are there other brushes that I should consider?

Thanks in advance.

Tim
 
Hi, and welcome to the forum!

Just me, but if you are good with the Eclipse, I would look into adding another with a .5 set up. The Eclipse is capable of doing some mighty fine detail, one you learn to really master them. Better to have two brushes that you know, than adding one that will require relearning on.

Now, after you get your second Eclipse setup, you can then add something different ;). That way learning a different brush won't take away from your production abilities. With that in mind, I will mention perhaps taking a look at the Procon Creos brushes, such as the PS270, PS289, and the likes. High quality Japanese brushes (made in the same factory as the Eclipse) at a lot lower price. Spraygunner.com carries a good bit of the line.
 
DaveG,

Yes, this was my thought. I have a 0.50mm set in my current eclipse and by adding the second brush, i would have one of each 0.35mm and 0.50mm without needing to swap parts. You make a good point about not learning a new brush. I am an amateur at best and adding complexity is most likely not the way to go. Thanks for the suggestions.
 
I’ll second what Dave has said, getting another Eclipse with the .35 setup would be great. But if you fancy a little change of pace, the HP-C is good for some medium coverage and some great detail too. I also second his suggestion of looking at the Creos range of brushes. I have a couple of them and the quality / performance is equivalent to my Iwata’s. In my hands anyway LOL.
 
SiRoxx,

Thanks for the comments. Seems that another Eclipse should be my next step. Having the two brushes with interchangeable parts will be a good pairing.

Thanks again.
 
Thats one reason i have 99% iwata brushes, minimal spare parts required :)
Very usefull, cause their parts are so expensive :D

Jokes aside. I started with eclipse Bcs 0.5, and moved to eclipse sbs 0.3

The one reason was, eclipse is ''hard'' to destroy and I can go from low budget to less friendly budget airbrushes while I am learning about airbrushing and about airbrushes. There is so many ''tricks'' within airbrushing , that I felt, it would be wise decision to start at ''solid bottom'' and move up as the time goes and I learn more about it. I still wanna try eclipse gravity one, just cause I am curious, even if I feel side feed would be better suited for me.
 
I pulled the trigger on a new Eclipse with the 0.35mm needle setup and a cut out pre-set handle (because why not) from Coast Airbrush. My local place is closed at the moment (for obvious reasons) and so had to reach out to the interwebs for a new brush. Went with Coast as they had the pre-set handle in stock for a reasonable price.

Thanks again for the advice.
 
I pulled the trigger on a new Eclipse with the 0.35mm needle setup and a cut out pre-set handle (because why not) from Coast Airbrush. My local place is closed at the moment (for obvious reasons) and so had to reach out to the interwebs for a new brush. Went with Coast as they had the pre-set handle in stock for a reasonable price.

Thanks again for the advice.
I like my pre-set handle for eclipse. :cool: I had few stuff which I was airbrushing and I didn't screw them up, cause I was cheating with my pre-set. :lipssealed:
 
Agreed @JackEb the sbs is not any more difficult to clean.

Onto the wicked paint flaking off the lexan bodies.. A while back I read that original createx paint (the stuff for t-shirts) was great for spraying the inside of lexan bodies. I'm am assuming its because its flexible for use on textiles. If you have the spare funds maybe get a bottle to try. You already have a 0.5 setup in the eclipse which is ideal for these paints but i'm sure the .35 will work also.

Lee
 
Agreed @JackEb the sbs is not any more difficult to clean.

Onto the wicked paint flaking off the lexan bodies.. A while back I read that original createx paint (the stuff for t-shirts) was great for spraying the inside of lexan bodies. I'm am assuming its because its flexible for use on textiles. If you have the spare funds maybe get a bottle to try. You already have a 0.5 setup in the eclipse which is ideal for these paints but i'm sure the .35 will work also.

Lee

I actually picked up a bottle of the standard white as a backer and have been pleased with the adhesion. I will try a few other colors once the local store opens back up and can grab a few other colors. The wicked paints seem to be pretty poor in adhesion, even on hard plastic surfaces. I have noticed that the paint scratches off very easily even after drying for days. Sometimes I can mar the paint just by dragging my fingernail across it with little pressure. Probably just my inexperience with the paints, thinner, etc.
 
I actually picked up a bottle of the standard white as a backer and have been pleased with the adhesion. I will try a few other colors once the local store opens back up and can grab a few other colors. The wicked paints seem to be pretty poor in adhesion, even on hard plastic surfaces. I have noticed that the paint scratches off very easily even after drying for days. Sometimes I can mar the paint just by dragging my fingernail across it with little pressure. Probably just my inexperience with the paints, thinner, etc.
createx 4030?
 
Received my new HP-CS over the weekend (pre-set handle is backordered :( ) so we will receive that at a later date.

New brush works better than my first brush by miles. Last night I was spraying a body and grabbed my current brush with the 0.5mm needle set and first trigger pull, I got nothing then bubbles in the cup, the same as when using the 0.35mm set. The 0.5mm had never done this when swapping back and forth between the suspected failed 0.35mm set. I am thinking there is something wrong with the body of the airbrush.

When I install either nozzle, I have noticed that I cannot close the air cap fully and it does not seal against the outer o-ring properly. When I compare the current airbrush with the new airbrush, there is a noticeable gap between the body and air cap for the current airbrush but no gap on the new unit. I have tightened them them the same amount but there is a definite difference. When I remove the nozzle and just install the air cap, it seats against the o-ring properly. Reinstall the nozzle and there is a gap.

Anyone ever seen anything like this?
 
Received my new HP-CS over the weekend (pre-set handle is backordered :( ) so we will receive that at a later date.

New brush works better than my first brush by miles. Last night I was spraying a body and grabbed my current brush with the 0.5mm needle set and first trigger pull, I got nothing then bubbles in the cup, the same as when using the 0.35mm set. The 0.5mm had never done this when swapping back and forth between the suspected failed 0.35mm set. I am thinking there is something wrong with the body of the airbrush.

When I install either nozzle, I have noticed that I cannot close the air cap fully and it does not seal against the outer o-ring properly. When I compare the current airbrush with the new airbrush, there is a noticeable gap between the body and air cap for the current airbrush but no gap on the new unit. I have tightened them them the same amount but there is a definite difference. When I remove the nozzle and just install the air cap, it seats against the o-ring properly. Reinstall the nozzle and there is a gap.

Anyone ever seen anything like this?
try if this helps you buddy


if you like more info and more details about bubbles here you got 17 minutes video:
 
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