Sotar 20/20 issue

He does have a sotar though, so he's already been "badgered"

So I thought I'd add some torture with a bad pun.
 
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.4 wasnt a mistake btw. AB nozzle sizes are given in radius instead of diameter.
With the crazy high resolution your camera seems to have I'm sure we could probably see if it's a flared nozzle if you post a pic of it.

This didn't originally make sense. Thanks for clarifying. I will try a toothpick but I dont think I can cut a sliver that fine. Have you tried a dental brush, something like this? https://www.kleenteeth.com/tepe-fin...MI4Nbq5pSJ3gIVTp7ACh0RXgluEAQYAyABEgJnPPD_BwE

He does have a sotar though, so he's already been "badgered".

Nicely done sir.
 
This didn't originally make sense. Thanks for clarifying. I will try a toothpick but I dont think I can cut a sliver that fine. Have you tried a dental brush, something like this? https://www.kleenteeth.com/tepe-fin...MI4Nbq5pSJ3gIVTp7ACh0RXgluEAQYAyABEgJnPPD_BwE



Nicely done sir.
The best way I’ve found to really clean a nozzle well is to soak it in a suitable solvent (eg if water eased paint, something like Acetone), then use a thin long haired brush to push out any left over paint. I learned that here and it’s a pretty foolproof way of cleaning a nozzle without damaging it.
 
Most really thorough methods have the potential for damage. Better to just take your time and use the soft stuff like siroxx brush method until you feel more confident in what you can get away with
 
I'm just a little bit concerned about the constant nagging for introductions here

100%.

I don't think there is any need for a vote but I think it goes without saying that there is absolutley no need for six requests for an introduction spread for three threads from the same dude.

I somewhat understand the point behind it but still, it is a little much. Plus it just doesn't seem very practical. Are you going to look up that intro months or years from now when I post. Will I still be using the same setup then? If I am not, do I need to give another intro. Or do I have to find and dig up that intro from the dead to update it? Just doesn't seem very practical. Seems like everything relevant should be put into the post you are writing at that particular time. If not, and people are giving advice from referencing data from a months/years old out of date intro, that could lead to bigger problems. Anyway, that is just my opinion.

Having said that, I really do appreciate the feedback and VERY helpful info here. Thank you guys and esp Rocketman.

Still have no idea what a picture of a dragon from GoT is supposed to represent.
 
But never put anything that has rubber in Createx Restorer 5619 . I only soak the nozzle in it for getting rid of any dried paint that builds up in it.

Could I use this to soak the nozzle used to spray acrylics, Vallejo Model or Model air paints? I assume so but it is probably better to ask.
 
100%.



I somewhat understand the point behind it but still, it is a little much. Plus it just doesn't seem very practical. Are you going to look up that intro months or years from now when I post. Will I still be using the same setup then? If I am not, do I need to give another intro. Or do I have to find and dig up that intro from the dead to update it? Just doesn't seem very practical. Seems like everything relevant should be put into the post you are writing at that particular time. If not, and people are giving advice from referencing data from a months/years old out of date intro, that could lead to bigger problems. Anyway, that is just my opinion.

Having said that, I really do appreciate the feedback and VERY helpful info here. Thank you guys and esp Rocketman.

Still have no idea what a picture of a dragon from GoT is supposed to represent.
Main thing I look for is where you live IE country . mainly that is for giving advice on where to buy things locally rather then off the net. Yes you can buy anything off the net but say if you had a dead line to finish a piece would you rather go to the local store to get the parts or wait for your internet order to get there.
Yes I do go back to most folks intro some do say where they live some do not. But it saves me time from looking up your IP address , Some questions do not need information like where someone live to answer , But some need nozzle size and paint being use to answer and most folks will not even give that .
We only can offer the best answer when we are given the best question with all the detail you can provide.
So do an intro , don't do one It really does not matter to me.
 
I can say for certain it does influence whether some people are motivated to give you a good answer.
Some will take it as; I don't have time for you...but hey can you do me a favor.

Anyway, hope you get this sorted out. Your on track to.... Did you try the food coloring? Or did you just kind of visually see that the nozzle looked flared.

Honestly I still think it's a paint thing. As do like ten other people w lots of experience.

I'm of the opinion that you don't have a million suggestions where to get your iwata because 1. No intro 2. It seems like you wanted to ditch your sotar bc it didn't automatically work for you and everyone knows the iwata won't either.
I haven't answered that one bc I'm biased towards another Japan brand with a little better value for dollars.

But for all I know, you used that hpc+ successfuly for years.............
 
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Anyway, hope you get this sorted out. Your on track to.... Did you try the food coloring? Or did you just kind of visually see that the nozzle looked flared.

I replaced the nozzle, had an extra one stashed. I haven't had a chance to try it yet but will let you know. I am using it to blend two colors so need a really tight line. I am definitely no expert but I had to thin it down significantly to use it as a glaze so my gut is telling me viscosity is not the problem. I will try this nozzle and if that doesnt fix it, will have to revisit the issue.
 
I replaced the nozzle, had an extra one stashed. I haven't had a chance to try it yet but will let you know. I am using it to blend two colors so need a really tight line. I am definitely no expert but I had to thin it down significantly to use it as a glaze so my gut is telling me viscosity is not the problem. I will try this nozzle and if that doesnt fix it, will have to revisit the issue.
There is a way. Get an ultrasonic cleaner it will do it easily and with no damage


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Ok, replaced the nozzle and lines are much better.

I'm of the opinion that you don't have a million suggestions where to get your iwata because 1. No intro 2. It seems like you wanted to ditch your sotar bc it didn't automatically work for you and everyone knows the iwata won't either.

There are two things in particular I dont like about the Sotar or Badger in general. My main gripe is that there seems to be a lot of slack between depressing the trigger and application of paint. Second, and this may be all airbrushes but if you are painting, stop, and start again, when you depress the trigger, you will get a splat of paint.

**Side note: I am getting significant dry tip. I have tried to use a very tiny bit of Badger needle juice to help with dry tip but I haven't noticed a difference. Anything you guys tried that helps with this issue?
 

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Ok, replaced the nozzle and lines are much better.



There are two things in particular I dont like about the Sotar or Badger in general. My main gripe is that there seems to be a lot of slack between depressing the trigger and application of paint. Second, and this may be all airbrushes but if you are painting, stop, and start again, when you depress the trigger, you will get a splat of paint.

**Side note: I am getting significant dry tip. I have tried to use a very tiny bit of Badger needle juice to help with dry tip but I haven't noticed a difference. Anything you guys tried that helps with this issue?
The only thing I’ve found to lesson the amount of tip dry is to reduce the paint a little more. You can only go so far with that method though. I’ve found the Createx Illustration isn’t too bad for too dry for me. Unfortunately it’s the nature of the beast, especially with waterbased paint.


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The splat is from stopping air before you've stopped paint
The other part is definitely reduction and pressure needing adjusted.
This nozzle will be just as bad soon.
It's easy to tell w this test sheet.
 
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The splat is from stopping air before you've stopped paint
The other part is definitely reduction and pressure needing adjusted.
This nozzle will be just as bad soon.
It's easy to tell w this test sheet.

Not sure I follow. Pressure is around 18 psi. What you mean by this nozzle will be bad?
 
It looks like your paint is just too thick at the moment.
If there’s a delay between pulling back and getting paint, it’s likely because the paint is thick and can’t pass through until the needle is some way back, then you get a rush. So it needs more reducer. Or you could try spraying at a higher pressure.
The splatter is because there is paint sitting on the end of the needle, then the air coming on blows it off of the end. You need to make sure the trigger is all the way forward before shutting off the air. That way the needle tip is clean from paint when the air comes back on.



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