Robbyrockett2
Air-Valve Autobot!
Yeah, I think you have to do something stupid to have that problem.
I'd like try a triple action and see how I like it too.
I'd like try a triple action and see how I like it too.
The DCA handle
- Thread starter Robbyrockett2
- Start date
I bookmark stuff which I wanna try, but I see that's quite a problem. My bookmarks are worth quite a lot of money -.-
AndreZA
Air-Valve Autobot!
what you describe is exactly why I have always preferred the needle presets that work from the front
and the one on the front of the Holbein Y-300
Ken mentioned that those screws are not actually preset screws. They are there to hold the trigger back and in turn the needle during shipping so that no damage get done to the nozzle. They have now removed them from their guns and now just pull the needle out a bit.
Robbyrockett2
Air-Valve Autobot!
That's a bit odd, my 1960's Thayer and chandler manual lists it as an adjusting screw and among the single page of instructions says
" To regulate size of line:
Turn adjusting screw to the right(screw in) to increase the size of the line; to decrease ,turn to the left ( screw out)."
Makes me think maybe an alterior motive for that statement..... Maybe they don't fix them under warranty???
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I remember reading reviews of the triple-action handles that said the added weight clamped to the back of the needle would flex the needle, causing the tip to go significantly off-center in the nozzle. Dunno if that's been fixed since. Seems like it would be an easy fix- just lengthen the part of the nut that's inside the handle sleeve so it never fully separates when pulled back, that way the handle sleeve would always be supporting the weight of the nut. Looks like the DCA handle as pictured in Dave's post may have that in hand (the nut looks like it might be fully supported for the length of travel).
Personally though, I'm with Dave: I cut the plastic bulbs off my Badger needles, not just because of the impact risk to the nozzle, but also because if I have to remove the needle for maintenance/cleaning, I prefer to remove it through the front rather than the back to avoid pulling any paint residue through the back of the brush. So having something clamped to the back of the needle would not only add risk, but extra faff to maintenance as well.
If I wanted to operate in "single action mode", a conventional needle stop IMO works better. Yeah, its still two motions instead of one, but it has the simplicity & consistency that's the point of single action, and without the needle/nozzle constantly open, there's much less clog and tip build up risk.
Personally though, I'm with Dave: I cut the plastic bulbs off my Badger needles, not just because of the impact risk to the nozzle, but also because if I have to remove the needle for maintenance/cleaning, I prefer to remove it through the front rather than the back to avoid pulling any paint residue through the back of the brush. So having something clamped to the back of the needle would not only add risk, but extra faff to maintenance as well.
If I wanted to operate in "single action mode", a conventional needle stop IMO works better. Yeah, its still two motions instead of one, but it has the simplicity & consistency that's the point of single action, and without the needle/nozzle constantly open, there's much less clog and tip build up risk.
DaveG
Airbush Analyst
Andre, that may be what Ken interprets that front mounted screw as, or why Badger continued to add them to the 100 series bodies once he assumed control. That can happen when you inherit a production line - that one may not have a full grasp of the theory behind the original design. I assure you that the front screw was the original form of preset, designed to allow a user to produce a consistent line width. I do have an album on my FB page about various presets, and will say that I feel the front mounted ones are far superior to any handle mounted one.
Paashe's version was better (though IMO Badgers are in general far better brushes than Paasches). Paasche had a knurled thumb wheel inset in the body in front of the trigger that was easy to turn by rubbing your finger across it. The wee round Phillips head screw in front of the Badger trigger is kind fiddly to adjust with the fingers. Though that could be improved very easily just by swapping it out with a bolt head or knurled socket cap screw.
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