what is the difference between- Iwata HP-CS vs Iwata Eclipse HP-CS?

A

Artista

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Im a novice when it comes to Iwata products.

It is a bit confusing to select which 'brush to go with for FINE ART painting. Specifically-portrait work.

I respect the works of artist Steve Driscoll.
He recommends Iwata brushes CM-SB and the HP-CS.

Ive decided to go with the HP-CS for now (cost wise) but I have noticed that the Iwata Eclipse also has a HP-CS model.

What are the differences between the two? Any responses would be highly appreciated ,thanks.
 
The Eclipse with the big gravity cup is the HP-CS. All Eclipse's model number are HP-(B(small cup),C(big cup),SB(side cup),BC(bottom feed))S.
 
Thanks AndreZA , but I made a mistake on the models ..
I meant to ask what the difference was between the
Iwata HP-CP (NOT the-CS) vs the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS..silly me!!!
 
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http://www.iwata-medea.com/products/iwata-airbrushes/

That should help you sort out the information. But, I've never heard of or seen an HP-CP. Either way, there website explains the differences in the designs between the different airbrush series.

Either way, for fine detail work like on portraits, I wouldn't go with any of the "C" models. You don't need the larger cup, and they come with .3 or larger nozzles, which are too big for good detail work. I would look at the HP-B+, HP-SB, or HP-BH. Or the CM-SB or CM-B if you have the money (they're worth the money, though). I like the side-feed airbrushes best, especially for detail. No color cup to bump your finger into, and nothing obstructing your view. Plus, you can clean up and change colors easier, and get different sized color cups, too. The plastic Aztek cups fit the CM-SB, and are dirt cheap.
 
Hi Artista,
The HP-CP (HP-C Plus or HP-C+) 0.3mm is built more for finer work than the HP-CS 0.35mm which is a workhorse however there is not much difference between the needle sizes. The HP-CP has a paint limiter and the CS doesn't but the main difference is at the front end. The CP has a tiny screw in nozzle, the CS has a bigger self centring nozzle.

I agree with HCP draggin, that for portraiture work you'd probably want a finer airbrush with a 0.2mm setup and I really like side feeds too. I have a HP-SBS 0.3mm (Eclipse same as CS but sidefeed) and a HP-SB+ 0.2mm (HP-SBP or HP-SB Plus) and I use both on my portraits. I use the Eclipse 0.3mm for the background and base cover and then use the HP-SB+ 0.2mm for the finer detail.

The Eclipse is much easier to use and with the 0.3mm nozzle it is much more forgiving with paint. The 0.2mm needs paint reductions to get it to spray well and is therefore more sensitive to paint and air pressure.

I have recently bought a Micron airbrush with a 0.24mm setup and I can get much, much finer detail than with the HP-SB+ even though it has a very slightly bigger needle. I generally paint onto A3 card or 30cm x 40cm canvas size and still use the Eclipse for the background work. I haven't tried using the Micron to do a complete painting yet because the Eclipse will give a good background cover in a few coats and the Micron would need more layers to get the same coverage, 1. because the Eclipse has a larger spray area and 2. it can spray thicker paint.
Cheers Mel
 
The HP-CP is the HP-C+, an HP-C with an adjustable handle and a cut out. Little brother the the HP-CH which just add the on brush Mac valve. It comes with a .3mm needle /nozzle. I have one of each.

The HP-CS is the eclipse gravity feed like Andre said. It has a drop in nozzle, the CP/C+, and CH have a screw in nozzle. The Eclipse line all have a drop in nozzle. The CS is a .35 nozzle, the BCS is a .5, and they can be interchanged , so you could put either needle/nozzle set it either brush, depending on what you want . In some of Eddie Davis' vids he explains using a BSC this way for finer detail.


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HP-CS is an awesome brush, I love it, and while it is an all rounder and an amazing work horse, and not specifically for detail, with the right reduction/pressure and practice, it will amaze you the level of detail it can do. Plus the drop in nozzle, and less finiky trigger assembly, make clean up way easier. I just think it's an awesome brush for the money.
 
HP-CS is an awesome brush, I love it, and while it is an all rounder and an amazing work horse, and not specifically for detail, with the right reduction/pressure and practice, it will amaze you the level of detail it can do. Plus the drop in nozzle, and less finiky trigger assembly, make clean up way easier. I just think it's an awesome brush for the money.

I definitely agree that the HP-CS is a great airbrush, especially for the price. And, yeah, it can get some really pretty impressive detail. But, for portrait work, which is very highly detailed, I really think an HP-B or HP-SB with the .2 tip would be a much better choice.

As Melbee pointed out, the smaller nozzle is a bit more sensitive to paint reduction, air pressure, etc. But, they're not completely unforgiving. It does depend on what paint you use, too. With paints like E'Tac, Wicked detail, or Createx Illustration, I have very few problems with my .2 tipped airbrushes, and I tend use use very little reducer in any of them. Cheaper, or older-formulated paints will have a few more issues, but they still aren't bad. Also, if you strain your paints (I use used pantyhose), it will pretty much eliminate any problems. Except tip-dry, of course, which is just a fact of airbrushing life.

Melbee- Like you said, you can get finer detail easier from a .23 micron than you can from a .2 HP-B. A lot of that has to do with the matched micron head unit, and especially the "air chamber" that helps make sure air flow and pressure are even on all sides of the needle/nozzle. That creates an more laminar airflow.

My MP200-C will get better, sharper detail than my .15-tipped Infinity, and is much more forgiving when it comes to paint consistancy. So, while nozzle size plays a role, as they say, size isn't everything ;-)
 
This reminds me , I have a nice new set of .2 parts , waiting to go into my HP-CH for just these reasons. That and I have an HP-C+ as well.
 
So, if I'm following correctly an HP-B+ is a better buy than an HP-CS, for detail work, using primarily createx wicked, or tamiya acrylics reduced 1:1, but a custom micron is first prize if one can afford it?
Or the HP-SB+ with side cup?
Psrsonalky so far, I prefer the gravity feed for ease of cleanup.
 
Very old post @Tim Attwell. There is no paint that only needs a 1:1 mix. For the Eclipse minimum 1:4 and the HP probably 1:8. I would say maybe even more for Tamiya. But I would recommend the Eclipse because easier access to the back of the nozzle especially for those paints.
 
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