DaveG
Airbush Analyst
-Are there major points to keep in mind when trying to put together the power-wheel-housing so it will spin again?
The main thing is that the top and bottom pins on the turbine wheel have to drop into the sockets in the base and in the top. These are the holes where the adjustable bushings are. I do not shake mine, just take care when putting the cover back on that everything is lined up. Sometimes you have to poke a small screwdriver in there to move the turbine wheel a little before everything drops in place.
-Is there a recommended cleaning solution to be used on its inside parts, or is carburetor grease, ok?
I use acetone for the most part. I don't use carb cleaner because it is pretty harsh on the plastic, and if it gets into the brush can effect the air valve seal. For the most part, alcohol or airbrush cleaner specific for the paint you are using is more than enough to keep everything clean.
-Is there a recommended lubricant for the AB Turbo, and if so what types/brands do you recommend, and where should this be applied?
For grease, I have had a guy that used to repair them for Paasche mention that they used to use Vasaline as the lubricant on the bearing points (top and bottom of the turbine wheel - as well as on the shaft where the walking arm reciprocates). I tend to use a clear polyurea grease on mine.
-Are there specific "type-of-metal" tools that one should use that will not damage the tiny screws. The small screwdriver it came with doesn't do well when screws are too tight (it was done this way by the previous owner.)
I use a larger screwdriver with a small blade, so that I can actually feel it in my hand. It offers a much better feel on the screw, adn allows you to keep even pressure to keep from slipping out, and rounding corners off. You need to keep in mind the larger tool offers more leverage, so reduce the amount of torque you apply, or you could twist a screw off... The one screw that gets turned the most, is the one that holds the color cup. This can be replaced with a #2 socket head screw so you can use a small allen key to loosen and tighten.
-Is there a recommended solution for removing rust from some of its parts, and also for removing a greenish tarnish due to its prolonged storage?
The brush is made mostly from brass, and then chrome plated. Any decent metal polish will aid in keeping it clean - I like Flitz, personally. The greenish color is generally from the corrosion of the brass base, and Flitz should clean that up (and help prevent it from happening again).
-There is some silver peeling that happens to it, a very thin coating, why is this? As long as it works, I'm happy to be honest.
If the plating is peeling, there is not much that can be done... it happens. I stripped and re-plated some of the parts on a few of my older ones, but this is not something most will do at home.
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I'm happy to be part of this wonderful forum! 
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oh just a chipmunk, never mind.....what were we talking about?
