Paasche v (vintage) help

[Kristen]

Hi
I have two vintage paasche v airbrushes (probably from around the 80's) I'm trying to use. I bought them from eBay as untested. They needed new needles/ nozzles and I have replaced those. One of them sprays only air and air shoots the water out of the cup like you wouldn't believe. The other doesn't spray anything but the trigger feels odd and doesn't have much spring to it. If there are any paasche experts around I could use your advice. Thanks in advance.

 

[2Diverse]

Hi Kristen. I'll try to help from what you have said. I'll start with the one you mention first.

Paasche offers two sizes of needles/nozzles. A number 1 and a number 2. You replaced the needle and nozzle correct? Did you make sure they match when you installed them. That is important. Did you get a wrench with them? You may not have tightened the nozzle cap enough. It needs to be snug. Do NOT crank on it. If it is snug you may need to apply some beeswax or ChapStick to the base of the nozzle.

On the second one: Does the handle screw on all the way? I'm wondering if the tube shank isn't screwed in enough. Check that and let us know.

Pictures wouldn't hurt either if you can.

 

[2Diverse]

This may help:

https://shop.hmswarehouse.com/TECH/PAASCHE/V_VJR_VL_VLSAirbrushes.PDF

 

[airbrushmuseum]

Follow what 2Desire suggests, he's spot on.
One other thing is to make sure there's a gap btween the aircap body and the body of the airbrush. If there's no gap then the nozzle may not seat correctly. I ran across this probelm in the 70s and 80s with Paasche Vs abd VJRs. Green handles rule!

 

[DaveG]

I'll play a little devils advocate - l hope the links Jim provided lead to a solution for you! That said, there has been a few different versions of nozzles and air cap, and nozzle cap on the V over the years, and not all parts work well together. I had a horrid time trying to bring an older V back to life until I found some new/old stock parts for sale that were originally from the 70's. Anything modern I tried using on the brush would cut off air flow if the nozzle cap was screwed on all the way. The other thing you might check is that all the business nits are from the same time period maybe try changing nozzle, air cap, and nozzle cap as a set.

 

[yfen444]

I'll play a little devils advocate - l hope the links Jim provided lead to a solution for you! That said, there has been a few different versions of nozzles and air cap, and nozzle cap on the V over the years, and not all parts work well together. I had a horrid time trying to bring an older V back to life until I found some new/old stock parts for sale that were originally from the 70's. Anything modern I tried using on the brush would cut off air flow if the nozzle cap was screwed on all the way. The other thing you might check is that all the business nits are from the same time period maybe try changing nozzle, air cap, and nozzle cap as a set.

Hi Dave, I have a second-hand vintage V and a NOS VJR from warehouse clearance. I ordered needles, nozzles, aircap and aircap body directly from Paasche for the replacement, but just like you said, they don't work well in either of my Vs. The air is blowing fine but the pain just doesn't come through.

The issue is that I can't tell from which year these parts are produced. What's worse is, although Paasche provides a set consisting of a needle, a nozzle and an aircap, but how can I make sure such a set will work with my aircap body (I have two 6-hole aircap body from those Vs and a 4-hole aircap body purchased from Paasche)?

 

[airbrushmuseum]

SAend some photos with cases, the eBay ones are fine along the serial numbers and we'll see what we can figure out for a date.
Did you solve any of the problems from your original poat, the odd trigger?
All my Vs & VJRs have 6 hole aircap bodies. They range from early 40s to the 90s. Is the 4 holere a recent puchase from Paasche.

 

[yfen444]

SAend some photos with cases, the eBay ones are fine along the serial numbers and we'll see what we can figure out for a date.
Did you solve any of the problems from your original poat, the odd trigger?
All my Vs & VJRs have 6 hole aircap bodies. They range from early 40s to the 90s. Is the 4 holere a recent puchase from Paasche.

Thanks for your reply. But I'm not the creator of this post. I looked for a solution to my specific issues with Paasche Vs and found Dave's reply relevant, hence I posted my question here. Hope I didn't bother anyone

Here are some photos of my V and VJR. I have replaced the handle and trigger assembly. I can see "65654" and "119396" in the body of VJR and V, respectively. And yes, you're correct that the 4-hole aircap body is from a recent purchase directly from Paasche. It's like the one of my Devilbiss DAGR, except with a different number of openings.

 

[DaveG]

I am sorry that I can't be more help trying to identify the needed parts here - my guess would be the the two brushes use the 4 hole setup with nozzle cap and corresponding nozzles - but I have no clue how to identify which is which. I just have not much experience with Paasche brushes made in this time frame.

 

[yfen444]

I am sorry that I can't be more help trying to identify the needed parts here - my guess would be the the two brushes use the 4 hole setup with nozzle cap and corresponding nozzles - but I have no clue how to identify which is which. I just have not much experience with Paasche brushes made in this time frame.

Thanks Dave. Guess I have to put them on the shelf for now.

 

[airbrushmuseum]

I have to put them on the shelf for now.

Temporarily! This is a busy weekend as tomorrow is my wedding anniversary so this will be brief but we'll pick it up again on Tuesday.
The VJR is from the 90s, the V from mid 80s. If there are instructions with them, they'll be dated so check that also.
I don't know that the problem is with different versions as much as poor workmanship and poor quality control causing problems.
What I'd like you to do if you haven't is clean them really well and use a small brush to clean the passages in the body/shell where the paint flows. I use GUM proxabrush go betweens wide, any larger drugstore should have them for 4 bucks.
When you reassemble them follow 2Divers's post about the beeswax on the nozzle.. Take a look my post above about the gap between the aircap body and the shell/body. If there's no gap, it could mean the shell/body has problems, QC related. After you've got them back together, trying spraying some purified water through them and let us know the results.
When you reply, give us the type of paint you use, what you paint and your experience level.
Where in the world are you? I'm in L.A./central California. Phone OK with you?
We will get these little MFs working despite Paasche!
As for that 4-hole aircap body, I've never seen one. It looks like it's an attempt to save money on Paasche's part.

 

[yfen444]

Congrats @airbrushmuseum, happy wedding anniversary!
I much appreciate your detailed instruction. I’ll follow it and let you know the results.

I’m located in Australia, I’m OK with international calls but the time-zone difference might be a problem .