Olympos 200 -A B C, irregular grade B and their modification

[Mitya Ka]

Here are a few examples - I use a collet chuck to hold the raw material to start each piece. For my holding fixtures I try to do all the hole drilling and threading at one time, without removing the work piece from the chuck. If you are single point threading on the lathe, then it is no issue also cutting reference flat on the piece for locating later with an indicator. If you are using a die stock or tap, it is a bit harder - as you will need to make an opposing threaded piece that can be threaded on or in to use for locating later. If at all possible, it is easier to do single point threading when trying to keep things concentric.

Here for a nozzle (or air) cap - First steps on this are to do the inside. I drill to depth and contour the inside of the nozzle surround, thread the ID to fit the brush body threads, and drill the exit bore. Doing all of these steps without moving the piece greatly increases the chances of keeping concentricity. The OD of this piece during this stage would have been full diameter of the raw material. I generally take a skimming cut of the OD while the piece is still help to make it concentric with the ID, too.
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The holding fixture is inserted into the four jaw independent lathe chuck. An indicator is set up with the tip on a pre-cut reference surface on the fixture. This area needs to be cut at the same time the fixturing piece is held for the threading operation - so that it is 100% concentric with the threads. The jaws are loosened and tightened until I get as little movement as possible on the indicator needle when rotating the piece.
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The needle cap threads can now be cut in a manner that will keep them concentric with the center bore of the nozzle cap. This method is more accurate than a collet chuck, as there will always be some runout associated with the collets. By using an indicator to center the work in the 4 jaw, you cut the runout at least in half if you take your time setting up.
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Dave, many thanks for the detailed explanation. Doing all possible operations from a single work piece setting in the lathe chuck is the most accurate method possible. I also really like the mating part you made for turning the eclipse nozzle cup.

 

[Mitya Ka]

I really like the look of these nozzle cup Have you been able to get the Eclipse Takumi with a 771 nozzle or any other nozzle to work at micron or 771 level at low pressure with these nozzle cups?

 

[DaveG]

My Eclipse with the .18 nozzle is maybe one of the easiest to use, finest detail producing brushes I own. I was playing with it the other day, and was literally sitting at my desk laughing at how easy it was to use compared to some other brushes I was working with.

The size of the exit bore will pretty much dictate how much air can be passed through the brush. It does require a little more pressure vs. a true Micron, but not by a whole lot - a few PSI (maybe). What I find cool, though - is that it tends not to "spider," or cause the paint to be blown off to one side when working very close to the surface.

I will never change this brush from the way it is set up right now.

 

[Mitya Ka]

My Eclipse with the .18 nozzle is maybe one of the easiest to use, finest detail producing brushes I own. I was playing with it the other day, and was literally sitting at my desk laughing at how easy it was to use compared to some other brushes I was working with.

The size of the exit bore will pretty much dictate how much air can be passed through the brush. It does require a little more pressure vs. a true Micron, but not by a whole lot - a few PSI (maybe). What I find cool, though - is that it tends not to "spider," or cause the paint to be blown off to one side when working very close to the surface.

I will never change this brush from the way it is set up right now.
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These are very good results! I can guess that the nozzle cup outlet diameter is somewhere between .6-.65mm. Perhaps on the Takumi version this nozzle cup will work even better and the airbrush will be even more responsive.

 

[DaveG]

These are very good results! I can guess that the nozzle cup outlet diameter is somewhere between .6-.65mm. Perhaps on the Takumi version this nozzle cup will work even better and the airbrush will be even more responsive.

around 0.66mm on the exit bore. I have the Takumi set up using a .2 needle/nozzle combo. - it works well, but I find the .18 brush a bit easier/forgiving to use.

 

[Mitya Ka]

around 0.66mm on the exit bore. I have the Takumi set up using a .2 needle/nozzle combo. - it works well, but I find the .18 brush a bit easier/forgiving to use.

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.18 is likely to work better as the nozzle output diameter is larger than .2. But there are many other factors involved Thanks for sharing. Creating things like this takes a lot of time. I would love to do something like this, but I'm running out of time. I'm choosing painting at the moment

 

[DaveG]

.18 is likely to work better as the nozzle output diameter is larger than .2. But there are many other factors involved Thanks for sharing. Creating things like this takes a lot of time. I would love to do something like this, but I'm running out of time. I'm choosing painting at the moment

The difference in performance between the two of them (the .18 and .2) has to do with the angle in which the air is stripping paint from the needle tip. I don't have it all figured out just yet, which is why I have not yet made these caps available. I made a lot of them, some work very well, some just work... the physical differences between them are so small it is difficult to measure.

My hope is that you will never run out of time!

 

[Mitya Ka]

The difference in performance between the two of them (the .18 and .2) has to do with the angle in which the air is stripping paint from the needle tip. I don't have it all figured out just yet, which is why I have not yet made these caps available. I made a lot of them, some work very well, some just work... the physical differences between them are so small it is difficult to measure.

My hope is that you will never run out of time!

Seeing how treperous you are about your work I'm sure you'll figure out the very subtle nuances of performance.